UKC

trad rack

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 jugs 19 Sep 2012
I'm starting to build by trad rack up, can anyone recommend some good gear, nuts, hexes, cams ect. cheers people
 GrahamD 19 Sep 2012
In reply to jugs:

Start with either a full set of Rocks or Wallnuts and a few quickdraws. Beyond that I would waite until you have climbed with partners gear a bit to see what your preference is.
 SimonCRMC 19 Sep 2012
In reply to jugs:

Search something like "beginners' rack" on here and you'll find plenty of advice as it's a common question, and the previous comment to try other people's stuff if you can is also a good hint.
andic 19 Sep 2012
In reply to jugs:

buy a set of 5 quick draws, a set of nuts and maybe a big sling and a screw gate

I presume you already have a rope, harness, belay set and a nut key?

If your partner is also a novice encourage him/her to get a few hexes and another 5 QDs
Richard88 20 Sep 2012
In reply to jugs: Wild country classic rocks are only £50 in field and trek. Theyre not all different colours but do the same job. They have some decent prices on a set of quickdraws too. Id reccomend the 1 and 2 dmm torque nuts depending on where you climb, i havent found that i really need the 3 and 4. They feel so bomber on each placement that i found it bulit my confidence up when climbing above them on harder routes. Again in field and trek theyre £12 each i think. Definitely get yourself a couple slings and screwgates, 240cm is always handy.
 nawface 20 Sep 2012
In reply to jugs:

Get good gear from the off so you slowly build up a really nice rack.

There are set of WC nuts on the for sale forum from the ex engineer. If they are coloured start with them.

Double axled cams over single axles. That'll be dragons or camelots. Much nicer to use and place. I use camelots but would prob choose dragons if I bought again due to the extendable sling.

light is right, if possible try and get light stuff. Changing to phantom quickdraws made a noticable difference to my rack weight when climbing.

As said, try and hold and use other people's gear so you can see what will work for you. Where you climb will also make a difference to what you need.
Gentleman 20 Sep 2012
In reply to jugs: In reply to jugs:

Many racks put an over emphasis on cams.

For prot gear:
1 set of nuts..

Then I would get a different types of prot gear so you can learn the pros and cons of each + proper placement. Once you know how the gear handles you can decide what is right for you.

one small ballnut .. size 2 perhaps.. depends on area where you climb.. these are really good on thin cracks.

tricam .. get one large size (or bundle of 4 small ones).. If you pick one, take one that has a range from your fist width thumb up <<>> knuckles sideways.. (or bit smaller than that).

one hex (or half set) these are fairly cheap so you get lots of peaces with moderate amount of money. If you pick only one take a size that fills gaps in range

one cam other size than you picked with tricams.. if set of 4 small tricams.. pick one for fist size.. if you picked fist size tricam, pick hand width. Of standard cams I prefer dmm 3cu - two axis design is good (thou this means bigger (heavy) cams which are not preferred tool for protection for me.

quick draws 5 or 6.. there are bundles that might save a bit. Lose biners and runners will give you better options (length) in trad climbing.

Few screw gates and 1 long runner and 1 medium


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