UKC

Hi all!

Im in kalymnos at the minute with another 3 weeks left and want to get stuck into a hard (for me) project. Been looking through the guide but spoilt for choice is a bit of an understatement so thought I'd give the UKC masses a chance to shine!

Probably looking at 7b+/7c area (if 7c not too hard for the grade). Probably better at routes with bouldery cruxes and probably around the 25-30m mark as my endurance is a bit poor at the minute.

Cheers,

James

In reply to James S: come on, surely someones got some ideas?

In reply to James S:

For things you probably won't have to queue for.... How about Chien Jaune 7b+ at Secret Garden (no polish, nice route despite the chipped finish) or Hogo Fogo (7c) at Olympic Wall (maybe a bit long but brilliant... take care at the start though). Also rather long (but there are rests), Ghost Rider 7b+ at Ghost Kitchen.

Fire Wall 7b+ at Arginonta is short and sweet (but maybe a bit busy).

If you want a major major project, Marci marc at Odyssey has to be the one (easy 7c+). Paris Texas 7c at the same crag might be a bit too hot for its small holds. Sirene 7c same crag will have a queue so not a good time for a project... ditto Polifemo 7c.

I would have thought Aegialis mid7c and Priapos easy 7c at Grande Grotta would have been too busy at the moment but I haven't noticed too many people on them this week. Bit long though.

For something new, try Call of the Ktulu easy 7c at Panorama, just left of Lulu (better to start up Lulu too) but again a bit long.

Tufa King Pumped? 7b+. A bit shorter. Too sweaty maybe at the moment, wait for a bit of a breeze.

Last suggestion: Blonde, top end 7c at Zeus, shorter, not busy, quick access (always handy for a project) and a mega route in the bargain.

Hope you find one of these absorbing!

Carl

In reply to James S:

I have a something just over your range, Helios at North Cape, oposite Odessy. it is 8a, and my partners lads did it in mid August, took 4 and 6 attempts. Not that long, and a good 7c next to it as well. Not too wel known so you could well have it to yourself.

In reply to James S: awesome stuff, thanks to both of you! will get the guide out and have a look!

7c+ aegialis in grande grotta. one of the most beautiful sport routes in the world.

In reply to James S: eros 7b+ arhi sector

In reply to James S:

Try Yanap on Spartan wall. Pockety Crux low down but then brilliantly varied, technical, but not too hard, wall climbing that just goes on and on. Its a very long pitch originally given 7c but if you crack the crux first go you may find it easy for 7b+. Don't worry too much about stamina/endurance there are several rests and shake-outs on the upper wall. When it finally gets steep in the upper groove the holds keep on getting bigger.

Dave

In reply to James S: Inti Rami at odyssey fo shiz.