In reply to Daniel Heath:
Very late post for me, week has flown by with moving and interviews. Sorry, not had time to read everyone else's posts but hope you all had a good week!
Last week was as unproductive (fitness wise) as predicted, with a mix of knee injury, end-of-season close down at work, moving back to the UK, and a cold I picked up all combining to mean not a lot got done.
M: Nothing
T: Cragging. Tried a 6b, failed. Seconded a 5c to get my draws back.
W: Cragging. Tried another 6b, fell off the crux a couple of times and bailed. Did another couple of easy pitches.
T: Nothing - came down with a cold so chose not to run.
F: 2 hour walk, feeling crappy.
S: Nothing.
S: Nothing except a driving marathon!
Seeing as my STG's were until the start of Oct, I guess I should evaluate how I've done...
- At least 5x 6a+, 2x 6b, get on a 6b+
I did the 6a+'s, 5 since I set that goal, one onsight, most 2nd go, and tried a few more. I got on 4 6b's and failed on all of them, primarily strength related.
- Work on my fear of falling... this is really holding me back, even on bolts. Go out specifically to take falls on a steep bolted crag a few times, then do the same on gear (even if it's with a TR back up). Build up to falls with feet 50cm or so above bolt. Hope this lets me push myself a bit more.
I've got a lot better. Not done any trad falls, have taken a few sport falls though. Still have a long way to go on this.
- Use all 6 'weekends' left in Chamonix for a long alpine or rock route, weather permitting. Specific objectives before I leave: Midi-Plan traverse, Frendo Spur, Dent du Geant/Rochefort arete, Moine ridge on the Verte, Ag de Republique, Papillions Arete/Paigne summit, Mont Dolent. Will be happy if I tick half of these.
Got two really good weekends in on the Dent and in Orco. One abandoned trip after someone fell off the Peigne. One weekend lost travelling, 2 with only short trips due to visitors. Conditions haven't been great for snowy stuff, so I'm fairly happy with what I've done, with lots of objectives to come back to.
- Get to Italy at least once, Orco valley granite cracks.
Done
- Run 10km at least once a week, in <hour.
Did this 3 out of 6 weeks, losing one for injury, 2 out of laziness.
- Start doing a bit of strength training again, specifically rock ring sessions (2/week) and squats as I have super weak legs (3/week).
Not really done... rock rings I have an excuse for, legs I don't.
- Non exercise wise, get my blog going, and maybe work on a few articles for UKC/magazines. Get brain functioning again!
Been getting there... sort of
So, not really achieved a lot of my goals, though I did do some. Really annoyed at myself for not getting some 6b's done as I know I can climb them technically and I've climbed harder in the past, just lacking strength totally right now. I found I was pretty burnt out by the end of the season, fighting sickness and feeling generally tired and unmotivated. This is the end of a year of not really working much and climbing/travelling/skiing lots, so not too surprised at this. Motivation was high a year ago and I got a lot done, not so much by the end. I'm pretty happy to be going back to a regular job, although not living in the mountains is going to be a shock! I'm glad I started posting on here though, I have certainly done more running because of it, and a little more climbing. Will be keeping this up. I have just accepted a job offer near Leeds, so will be heading back to my old stomping grounds. Change is happening!
A new set of STG's are needed, so until the spring:
- Excited to get to the wall again regularly and get some strength back. 2x wall sessions/week, leading 6b indoors comfortably by the end of winter, working 6c. Bouldering maybe V4 or so? (I'm not much of a boulderer, even indoors).
- Running - run at least 3x/week, and at least 25km/week. Build up milage aiming towards a marathon in the spring.
- As and when weather permits, consolidate at E1 outdoors.
- Get a mountain bike again as soon as I can afford it and get out lots!
- Start training again, on the fingerboard and leg strength stuff also. 2 sessions of each/week.
- Ski at least one week over winter, preferably touring.
- Scottish 4 lead. Climb in Glen Coe/Ben Nevis area as only been to the Cairngorms before.
- Start a Yoga or Pilates class.
MTG (next year):
- Confident E1 leader, getting on some E2s.
- 6b sport onsight, 6c worked.
- Confident above (good) gear, willing to take some small falls.
- Get a good crack climbing trip in, maybe Indian Creek or Norway.
- Mountain marathon, or maybe the Lakeland 50.
- Psyched to get back into UK trad properly, explore new areas (Pembroke, Gower, some more remote Lakes crags, slate quarries, more stuff in Scotland).
LTG as before.