/ My training plan

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Mr-Cowdrey on 03 Oct 2012
I have written up a training plan for myself after reading through some training books and articles and have posted it to my blog chriscowdreyclimbing.blogspot.com/p/training-plan.html?m=0

If possible, could someone on here who has more knowledge than me in this area read through it and give me their thoughts? All advice and criticism welcome

AJM - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:

What are you training for? Having looked at the programme I'm none the wiser - you start with a foundation stage, then jump into some strength training, then basically drop all climbing training in favour of CV exercise, and then after what will basically be 4 weeks of ticking over climbing-wise jump into a power endurance training programme?

Specific thoughts in a random order, focusing only really on the climbing aspects:
- for your taper, the stuff I've been told and read suggests a 50% cut in volume but maintaining the highest intensity stuff, so keep the power endurance but drop out any aerobic work you are doing basically, do shorter sessions but still try bloody hard whilst you are doing them. Not easy climbing and weights.
- in addition, what is week 20? Weeks 18-19 are tapering, so forcing your body to a state where it can provide peak performance immediately afterwards, and then just as you peak you take a rest week? I would have thought week 20 should actually be the first week of your trip...
- why hyper gravity bouldering, why not just boulder harder? Adding weight mucks up your centre of gravity and so teaches you to move slightly differently from how you would unweighted.
- 4 week strength focus seems way too short to get major physical benefits, the improvements you will see are nervous-system based to a large extent at that duration.
- I'm not entirely clear what your foundation period is for, unless you are coming back from a long layoff? If not, why not just start the "real" training elements of the programme?
- what are weeks 9-13 intended to do? All that will probably happen is that the nervous-system based improvements from your short strength training period will start to disappear, meaning you'll be starting your pe phase almost from scratch.

You've got about 20 weeks. Climbing wise, you could structure that as about a 2:1 ratio of base training (arc and building your aerobic capacity, together with strength work focusing both on short boulders and longer (12move or so) problems) to peak training (the power endurance), with a taper fitting within the last week or two of the power endurance phase, dropping everything low intensity and trying bloody hard for shorter time periods. That would give you about 13-14 weeks base and 6-7 weeks peak/taper. 14 weeks is not far off what the anaerobic capacity adaption time is (16 or so), so fits well for that, and 6-7 weeks isn't far from the power endurance adaption times of about 8 weeks.

But most importantly, you need to decide what you want to do, because at the moment the plan covers many different elements, including a very large cv focus (are you trying to train for alpinism for example, in which case why the serious strength work?), and I'm not sure whether people will be able to offer advice on a whole training plan like that without understanding what you want to get good at.

Mr-Cowdrey on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to AJM:

helpful advice, thank you. And I see what you mean.

Basically, i'm trying to focus on a series of different types of climbing. I'd like to push my sport grade from 6c+/7a to 7b/7b+ and up my trad to E4/E5, but at the same time, like you have mentioned, get fit for alpinism and winter next year.

After reading through your comment, i understand where you're coming from, and i think now that i'm trying to focus on too many things at the same time.

conorcussell - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to Mr-Cowdrey: Don't think of that as too much to concentrate on. Improve your sport and your trad will follow, and getting fit for the alps won't take too much time away from that.
AJM - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:

I certainly don't think it's impossible to combine them, plenty of people do, but maybe some rework would give you a plan that would work better at doing so. Doing walking training on climbing rest days and vica versa will probably do more for you than having whole blocks where you focus solely or almost exclusively on one. And some of the specific points would maybe help improve the climbing side of the plan.
Mr-Cowdrey on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to AJM: nice one, thank you. I'll get round to changing a few things shortly

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