UKC

came across this and thought it might be of interest

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=_pveXzBK3fU

In reply to phillipjohnson: Ouch, and he grabbed the rope on the way down, bet that smarted a litle, lucky to get away with it though relatively unharmed.

In reply to phillipjohnson:

You might want to delete this and make the topic more accurate. I'm glad I don't use a Cinch!

In reply to phillipjohnson:
Interesting although why was he using an unfamiliar belay device for route setting without a back up, it seems like asking for a nasty shock!

In reply to cha1n: is it not an edelrid eddy?

In reply to cfer:

Was he unharmed? It looked like he bounced horizontally off the floor! That ropeburn is going to be something quite special, you're right.

In reply to Reach>Talent:
I realise my last post may come across as a bit of moral highground-ing which it isn't.

Mike - I normally just use a shunt as I'm too lazy to fix a single rope

In reply to alooker:

It's an Eddy - looks like user error to me.

Never liked those things.

E

In reply to cha1n:

That's an Edelrid Eddy, not a cinch. That's disappointing as I thought the eddy was the most fool proof of the lot.

The lever on the eddy, gri gri, or cinch (and stop) should not be used for lowering control, but to release the camming action. The other other hand should always be controlling the break rope like a traditional device.

On another note, he should of used a shunt or similar backup on a second rope.

In reply to alooker: Beat me to it.

In reply to alooker:

Right you are. Knew it wasn't a grigri, knew I should have checked before posting. Thought it didn't look square enough to be a cinch..

In reply to phillipjohnson:

Operator error would be a more apt title!

In reply to phillipjohnson: so the title of the thread might not be right, was not thinking straight when posted it.

In reply to cha1n: either way, I'll stick to what I know works for me!

In reply to talon_guy:
It is a feature of the Eddy that if you pull the lever back too far it stops lowering (dead mans handle). It´s also a feature that if you have done this it is almost impossible to control returning the lever to the lowering position without dumping yourself on the ground. There was a nasty accident in the US because of this.
There is apparently a modification to remove this feature (which is a `safety´selling point) to make the operation safer if you see what I mean!

In reply to phillipjohnson: 1. Self belaying on a device not designed for self belaying, not good! 2.Not having any method of tying it of or using back up knots in the rope, also not good. Also whilst route setting (working not climbing) should be using proper methods like IRATA regs. 2 points of contact incase one fails.
Most people including myself use gri gri's or eddy's to self belay but i do so cautiously as it is being used for somthing it is not designed to do.
Also why are there 2 of them setting so close together that seems sketchy aswell.

In reply to phillipjohnson: Bet his pants smell now!

Very lucky he didn't get seriously injured. Is there not a case for backing these things up with a prusik?

where was this ?

took me ages to work out he was setting on one rope, given how we do it with
2 ropes, gri-gri, ascender and shunt ! and nearly took out his mate

In reply to phillipjohnson:

They are also setting on what looks like one rope and counter weighting each other!

In reply to phillipjohnson: Did no one else notice the drill he was holding - that could have done quite a bit of damage too!

inappropriate equipment choice + no back up = one lucky man!

In reply to higherclimbingwales: Well spotted, that was the drill battery bouncing up when it hit the deck. I'd have any tools on a lanyard if it were me. And yeah, looking at it they were counterbalancing each other (watch at the end as he releases it when stood on the floor.

Accident waiting to happen!

sure they've done it lots of times before like that and never had a problem though....

In reply to JoshOvki:
If you watch closely they aren't actually on the same rope. Still pretty shoddy work though.

In reply to phillipjohnson:


This guy was in my University climbing club, many refused to climb with him. His name is Phil, and the ineptitude in this video does not surprise me!

In reply to Reach>Talent:

Are you sure? They are using the same anchors for sure.

In reply to JoshOvki:
Yes. watch the other guys belay device, it doesn't move. There is no movement in that rope. I think they may have tied it off at the top.

In reply to Reach>Talent:

Oh yeah, good point. Just being shoddy having two people on one anchor.

In reply to Jack Finney:
I'm quite surprised that he seems to have put it up on Youtube himself. "Lesson learned" he says - don't think so, not only is it not lesson learned he seems to have no idea of the magnitude or true nature of his f*ck up.

Easy to point the finger, and I expect muppetfilter will be along sooner or later to be unbearably sanctimonious, but I was just thinking wouldn't it be nice if someone could get in touch and try giving the lad some constructive advice kinda sorta in memory of David Hooper. (Who undoubtedly would have.) :O)

Is that a commercial wall? They're on very dodgy ground and have also had a lucky escape here. As someone mentioned above, route setting is work (whether they're paid or not) and the full gamut of H&S rules & regs regarding work at height apply.

Its slightly depressing that so many places still seem to regard route setting as something that any numpty can do and the cheaper the better. Quite apart from the elf'n'safety issues, it really doesn't make for quality routes.

In reply to phillipjohnson: Idiots.....
The surprised look on the face says it all - 's#=$% what just happened there?' i.e. no idea what he was doing.
That set up is so wrong for a whole variety of reasons.

In reply to jimtitt:

Jim, do you have a link to that please? As I use an eddy to self belay I guess I need to know about anything that could kill me. Thanks

In reply to David Coley:
I´ve only heard you can modify it, no gory details I´m afraid! I´d imagine it involves adding a stop so you can´t pull the lever so far back that the deadmans handle function works any more.