In reply to dr_botnik:
> I tend to climb F6a indoors, and have led several HVS's (including Goliath's Groove) however often feel frustrated at not pushing myself outside. I often feel I am capable of climbing harder than VS, but when I do try, I find myself second guessing decent gear placements and failing to really commit, or conversely running the tank to empty fiddling gear on sustained routes and having to then rest. Also I love to boulder, but the majority of problems are just out my price range at Font 6 and above.
> Would people either recommend:
> a) Doing an SPA course...
No. It's not even tangentially related to what you're looking for, it's a group supervision qualification.
> b) Hiring a professional coach for a session...
Could be helpful, depends how good the coach is and how you respond to it in the medium term.
> ...a 5 day course at Plas Y Brenin is £725, phew)
Yikes. Sounds like my idea of hell!
> c) Just carry on climbing with slightly more experienced partners and training until my grade improves...
To climb harder you need to be getting on harder routes and seeing others do the same. It's much harder to have the self belief doing it alone. Whatever other action you take it needs to be combined with getting on harder routes with inspiring partners.
> d) Something I'm missing?
If you love bouldering why don't you focus on it a little over the winter, those Ft6s won't be far out of reach.
And if your main focus is trad why not start mixing in some sport in the spring, get comfortable making challenging moves above your clips.
> My overall goal has been UK Tech 6a, but I'm currently lacking any mileage at 5b and 5c just seems to shut me down on lead. Maybe its just a case that the grass is always greener on the other side, but I'd really like to climb some sea cliffs
Try some! 5a/b tech gains you access to quite a lot of good climbing.
jk