/ UKC Cuillin Conditions report 6 November 2012

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Mike Lates - on 06 Nov 2012
A superb cold blast and my earliest ever Cuillin winter routes with Guy Steven this weekend.

We climbed Dave Ritchie's excellent CD Buttress V,6 up on Thearlaich on Saturday, stashed the rack then came back to climb a great new route on Sunday. Deliverance was the name chosen as the Cuillin had "delivered" on Guy's first winter sortie. You can read my version- http://skyeguides.co.uk/deliverance-vii7-4th-november/ and Guy's modest version- http://guysteven.blogspot.co.uk/

Ludicrous quantites of snow fell overnight Saturday leaving avalanche debris in the great Stone Shoot to deal with on Sunday. The shear line was where we had belayed at the foot of CD Buttress, about 100m below the top of the shoot.
Cameron also reported a wide avalanche at the north end of the Cuillin- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=526243
Avalanches on this scale are a first for me in 18 Cuillin winters. The cold winters in 2009 and 2010 gave a wee bit of windslab but big wet-slab is very unusual.

So far we have 2 of the 3 crucial stages suggested by Tom Patey for perfect Traverse conditions; a massive dump and a thaw right to the crest- the Ridge would have been great if solid this last w/e. As ever in this situation it's a very fine line on whether the crest of the Ridge will strip before the next cold arrives at the weekend. Optimists will keep a close eye & be prepared for a possible rush on Friday. I'll watch temps & try to get glimpses when the cloud clears and post updates.
jonnie3430 - on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to Mike Lates:

SHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!! Pete's sake! You can't say that on here! If it is good nick there'll be 60 folk going for it all on top of each other!
Mike Lates - on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to jonnie3430: Tickets available as you cross the bridge
Experience shows very few get it together even when I have been positive. Of those who acted Stevie Ashton probably was the happiest when he broke the record in 2008.
Mike Lates - on 09 Nov 2012
In reply to Mike Lates:
Conditions- Sgurr nan Gillean popped her head out this morning. Still large snow patches but the crest looked bare so a full Traverse wouldn't be my idea of fun this w/e. With clearing skies and temperatures dropping I'll still be optimistic about finding something good and wintery to climb.

Pictures- Avalanche crown wall in Great Stone Shoot- http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=208098
CD Buttress, V,6- http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=208097
Deliverance, VII,7- http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=208096

Outlook- Plenty of "weather" over the coming 9 days and rarely breaking into double figures on the temperature so freeze/thaw high up will hopefully be doing its magic. http://www.weather.unisys.com/gfsx/gfsx.php?inv=0&plot=850®ion=eu&t=9p I'd guess this is very good news for Ben conditions too.
wilkie14c - on 09 Nov 2012
In reply to Mike Lates:
watching very closely!

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