In reply to tsarted: I don't think the gullies were in condition before the thaw. The snow we've had is soft and unconsolidated and hasn't filled the gullies properly yet. The thaw will only have worsened that. Doing climbs out of No.3 Gully last week it was steep loose and horrid looking above us (anything but Grade I). The bed of the gully was loose snow and rubble with the odd tiny blob of ice. Its drizzly and damp in Lochaber today. More snow and a few freeze thaw cycles will bring them into 'normal' condition but that might be a while yet.