In reply to mrchewy:
> there must be someone on here who would fancy
> having you as a partner for Mont Blanc?
I think that a key planning question is:
Do you think you might punch through down into a crevasse on Mont Blanc, or not?
(Those who have never seen real crevasses and the ways they can be dangerously hidden, during their several years of excellent experience in Scotland, can perhaps be forgiven for not wanting to guess an answer to this).
For those who answer Not, I have a further question:
Q: Assuming you can assess weather + serac-fall + summer-avalanche + rockfall danger to choose a reasonably safe route and day -- and you carry a SPOT to request a rescue ...
Why do you need a Partner?
. (never mind a Guide) .
(Those who think that Mont Blanc might have substantially different weather + serac-fall + summmer-avalanche + rockfall hazards than Scotland have another reason not to answer this question).
Crevasse -- For those who think that crevasse-fall _does_ need to be considered, this question:
Q: How do you know that this partner is going to be able to save you if you do punch through down into a crevasse?
Most books (and the crevasse-rescue I took) say that crevasse rescue with a party of two is rather tricky. For one thing because it's tricky for the same person to both hold the fall and initiate rescue. And other things in the complexity of real-world rescues with an injured faller where additional hands or additional muscular strength are important.
Usually the books and courses say that a single rescuer is likely to succeed only if they are very experienced and capable.
How do you know your partner is that?
. (in recent years there was a case on Mont Blanc where both climbers died in a hidden crevasse apparently because the one who was a Guide was unable to arrest the fall).
Q: So don't you really want Two partners (or Three?), if you're really taking crevasse-fall risk seriously?
Which then gets us to further questions like, "You mean partners who once fifteen years ago did a simulated dry-land rescue in Scotland?" or "You mean partners who last year did one day on rescue techniques in the Alps, though on a section of the glacier which was obviously safe and well-controlled?"
The more Partners, the higher the probability that one will turn out to be too slow above 4300 meters because of altitude sickness (or just slowness). The higher your demand for Quality in your partners, the less likely you are to be able to synch on dates or goals.
(There are reasons why lots of alpine climbing is done in parties of two.)
Questions.