4 new problems/eliminates done on the Sheriff block. The rock and landings are excellent and most dry quickly after the rain.
1 - Jacks Arête – 7c. Sit start (no crouching) with left hand on the obvious flake (left of large crack) Right hand on the arête. Slap up the arête until it’s possible to slap the top with the left hand. All parts of the rock pillar under the roof on the left are out.
2 – Sheriff-less – 7c+. An eliminate on the Sheriff, no back wall or diagonal crack.
The following 2 problems have not had full ascents due to the wet nature of the roof cracks. 2 shorter versions have been done at similar grades.
3 – Jacks Roof - 8a. From the back of the cave under Jacks Arête. Start on a small sharp pocket in the roof and a flake/ramp in the crack (all back wall is in) Climb straight out through the roof and finish up Jacks Arête. Shorter version, Start 1m under the roof with left hand in the large pocket and right hand on the edge of the roof crack, climb out through the roof and finish up Jacks Arête.
4 – Jack Shot the Sheriff – 8a. Start with hands and feet in the roof crack and climb across the roof to the start flake of the Sheriff, finish up the Sheriff (no back wall). The shorter version can be climbed when the cracks are wet (towel dry the cracks). Start with feet in the roof crack, right hand in the large roof pocket and left adjacent on the lip of the roof, pull on and climb through the roof to the start flake of the Sheriff, finish up the Sheriff.
All problems need repeats so all grades need confirming.
Well done and thanks. Presumably you are using the usual reporting methods for these as well. I'm writing up Woodhouse Scar for the new YMC guide and will get these looked at and wouild appreciate some wider feedback on the other hard problems there...email me thought this site.