UKC

replacement for the shunt for roped soloing?

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 jimjimjim 22 Nov 2012
In reply to Landy_Dom: that link is a download people....
OP Landy_Dom 22 Nov 2012
In reply to jimjimjim:

Here is the original web page that references the above pdf if people are more comfortable with that, I just linked to the pdf because it has more detail...

http://www.iscwales.com/news/ISC-RED-Back-up-Device/?page=1
 Jonny2vests 22 Nov 2012
In reply to Landy_Dom:

Looks a bit like an Ushba, or a Troll Rocker. I wonder what they mean by 'Rated Capacity'. 240kg doesn't sound like much.
 Jonny2vests 22 Nov 2012
In reply to jimjimjim:
> (In reply to Landy_Dom) that link is a download people....

Not sure why that's an issue...
OP Landy_Dom 22 Nov 2012
In reply to jonny2vests:
> (In reply to Landy_Dom)
>
> Looks a bit like an Ushba, or a Troll Rocker.

It's from the company that makes the Rocker for Troll, so might be an evolution of the Rocker, I'm not sure.
 Jonny2vests 22 Nov 2012
In reply to Landy_Dom:

Ok. I have a rocker and a shunt, mainly I use the latter. Don't do much soloing with it these days, handy for simul climbing though.
 climber david 22 Nov 2012
In reply to jonny2vests:
> (In reply to Landy_Dom)
>
> Looks a bit like an Ushba, or a Troll Rocker. I wonder what they mean by 'Rated Capacity'. 240kg doesn't sound like much.

Thats the maximum user weight/rescue package weight, not the maximum weight that the device will hold up
 Jonny2vests 23 Nov 2012
In reply to climber david:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> [...]
>
> Thats the maximum user weight/rescue package weight, not the maximum weight that the device will hold up

Thanks. Still makes no sense to me though.
needvert 23 Nov 2012
In reply to Landy_Dom:

Says self parking not self tailing. That sounds less than desirable.
OP Landy_Dom 23 Nov 2012
In reply to needvert:
> (In reply to Landy_Dom)
>
> Says self parking not self tailing. That sounds less than desirable.

I thought that meant the sprung cams defaulted to a grabbing position (like the shunt) rather than defaulting to a running position (like the Rocker) until it was loaded?

I might be wrong though. Be interesting to try one...
 Adam Long 23 Nov 2012
In reply to Landy_Dom:

I've trialled these for work purposes, as well as the Heightec Manta and Kong Back-up, which work on very similar lines. The Kong one is a bit smaller and has a neat switch to activate the spring on the cam.

They all comply with the Industrial Back-up standard EN 12841A. A Shunt will not pass this standard for a few reasons - strength being a big one. Loaded against a knot a Shunt will release the rope at 4-5kN. So strength is one advantage of these devices over a Shunt.

Other than that any other advantages will come down to personal preference, as with a Shunt you will be using it outside manufacturer's recommendations so don't expect any guidance. Petzl of course recommend using a toothed device like a Basic ascender or Mini traxion.

Personally I'd leave these devices to rope access and use a Mini/ micro traxion. For me the increase in safety from a toothed device (much harder to override it accidentally, eg by grabbing the body) far outweigh any issues of rope damage from the teeth. You still need a second device for descending whichever option you go for.

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