/ how to diagnose a finger injury

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KristopherHall - on 23 Nov 2012
Can anyone help me, hurt my finger but i dont have a clue whether its a tendon or pully etc. Dose anyone know of a link with a diagram or anything like that! Iv read about a1, a2 etc but i dont know what they are.

I "think" its a pully but could be wrong. Its my ring finger, more of a discomfort than a pain. It didnt snap or brake it just feels weak and would be painfull to hang on. It feels deep and is hard to pin point where the discomfort is but i would say its my finger/hand.

id be very greatful for any advice

GINOCOPOD - on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to KristopherHall: sounds like you may have tweaked it. If you tear/rupture a pulley you can hear a popping sound come from your finger. Will take a good few weeks to completely heal but don't stop climbing, just take it easy for a bit and then increase intensity when it feels stronger. Hope this helps
I like climbing - on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to KristopherHall:
I advise you get to a physio asap. The quicker you get the problem diagnosed and find out what to do the quicker you can get back to climbing.
Aly - on 24 Nov 2012
In reply to KristopherHall:


The most common pulley injuries are A2, or sometimes A4. Ring fingers are most common, followed by middle finger. If you didn't hear a loud pop or crack then I'd guess that you've tweaked rather than ruptured it.

Whenever I've hurt an A2 pulley I can feel a tenderness on the underside (palmar side) if I palpate the finger between the MCP and PIP joints. It is usually not too painful to stress open-handed (as you would a mono) but painful when stressed in a crimping position (do this gently!)

Either way, ibuprofen and ice are probably a good idea, as is resting it initially. Get a proper diagnosis if you're worried and do a bit of reading. There's loads of info on climbing finger injuries, and some good resources over on the other channel (UKBouldering.com).

Things I've tried in the past are alternate cold and warm water, and massage to break down any scar tissue. I also tried to keep it active with easy climbing to keep the boredom at bay. Whether these really help or not I've no idea, but at least you feel like you're doing something.

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