In reply to jonnie3430:
> (In reply to metal arms)
> [...]On the contrary, I do want to climb there, am interested in the access and issues. I also want others in the future to be able to enjoy climbing like we have it. Bolts on routes and the habit of redpointing cause far greater wear to climbing routes. Once worn, these routes will have far less interest for future generations. Do you know what the future holds? I don't but we are quite good at developing gear, so who is to say that the needs for bolts are not redundant in twenty, fifty or a hundred years time, when your legacy is a rusty bolt and a polished route.
We don't NEED bolts now. There is a large section of the climbing population that enjoy bolt-clipping. I enjoy climbing trad and sport, and even enjoy the weird hybrid stuff on the slate and The Great Orme.
Dyserth is a bolted crag, if you feel it shouldn't be, get some local feeling, and if you still think it shouldn't be, take action. This thread is about lower-offs being stolen, not whether or not sport climbing is sustainable.
As an aside, I've never climbed anywhere with more polish than Stoney (mainly trad). Bolts don't cause polish, climbers do. Easy access routes get more traffic by their nature. If you don't want routes to get polished, you need to stop climbers climbing.
There has been rusting metalwear in climbs since before sport climbing took off. It is the nature of the beast (climbing) unfortunately. Is a rusting stuck wire better than a rusting bolt? Genuinely interested if you think it is. Surely only top-roping would stop this issue, but would then increase polish. In my view, bolted crags and trad crags can co-exist and neither is purer or more ethically sound than the other. They're different sides of the same coin (and presumably bouldering is the edge!).
Also why does redpointing cause 'far greater wear'? Surely working out the perfect sequence and only using the appropriate holds causes less wear than scuffling about on your onsight go and using everything, going up and down... Unless you onsight like Ondra and never mess the sequence up (I am definitely not in this category).