/ uiaa fall rating

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Josi - on 28 Nov 2012
I've just bought a new rope for sport climbing and was looking at the uiaa falls rating and was wondering what is the definition of a uiaa fall?
I've also been doing a lot of 'practise' falling to try and get comfortable with whole falling thing because the primal fear of falling has definately been holding me back....So i've got fairly comfortable taking 20-30 footers. Going past a bolt and upto the next or getting to the lower off and getting a hand full of slack before jumping and this is feeling ok but it has got to shorten the lifespan of a rope and i'm just wondering how long before I should be replacing the rope used for this. The sheath is showing a little fuzziness and minor signs of melting. I've been using a mammut vertex.
cuppatea on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to Josi:

You're a braver man than I am, Gunga Din!
Martin W on 28 Nov 2012
whispering nic - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to Josi:
Josi, UIAA 'falls' create a significant impact on the rope which a 'normal' whipper shouldn't. Having said that taking repeated falls on your rope will of course take it's toll. You need to think about the fall factors you are subjecting your rope to (i.e. the distance fallen divided by the amount of rope available to absorb the fall)- the closer you get to a fall factor 1 the more you are hurting your rope, and and all the other kit in the system (harnesses, quickdraws, bolts, spines etc.)

Having said that if you make careful visual and tactile inspections of your rope you should be able to monitor when your rope needs to be trimmed or binned. A rope that is still strong but has lost some of it's dynamic property will put extra strain on the other parts in the safety chain. Hope that makes sense.
cliff shasby - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to Josi: you should of taken up bungee jumping not climbing...!
Cheese Monkey - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to Josi: I'm pretty sure you have not taken a single UIAA fall yet. And even then you'd have to have several really major whippers - past your belayer - in a row to get close to the UIAA rating. You'd be more likely to break your spine in the process I recon.
The Ex-Engineer - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to Josi: FWIW an historic test of the sort of 'big' falls you get indoors found that it took close to 200 falls on exactly the same length of rope with a static belay in order to break it.

You can look at that two ways.

The good news is that the test rope looked utterly trashed after around 100 test falls but still held loads and loads more falls. You will definitely get to the stage of binning your rope before there is any danger of breaking it in a normal, clean fall. [Obviously falls on worn badly krabs or over sharp rock are a completely different proposition.]

The bad news is that taking loads of practice falls without good dynamic belaying and/or adequately resting the rope could fairly quickly take a big chunk out of your rope's life span.
jkarran - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to Josi:

30ft is a big fall!

Your rope's probably fine but if you're not happy with it cut off the beat up ends or get a new one. Your call.

I've no idea how many falls my ropes have taken, some of them are into the hundreds for sure.

Panick - on 29 Nov 2012
In reply to Josi:
> So i've got fairly comfortable taking 20-30 footers.

Wow that is a big fall...As long as you are checking your rope (and you know what you're looking for) then don't worry too much about the falls. You should be able to tell when the ropes getting knackered.

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