In reply to jon:
> (In reply to Jon Bracey)
> [...]
>
> Twenty something years in the case of Corcrazion... I'm sure most folks have never heard of it!
Coracrazion has become a forgotten item of climbing lore as a lot of fine routes on the italian side, but in its specific case the reason may be the very nasty reputation the NF of Greuvettaz has. The original Boccalatte route has seen a staggering number of climbing deaths vs. an handful of repeats (its statistics make Eiger look positively safe!). The Mroz 1973 route on the left has been repeated once (by Mark Miller) and I'm told he found the experience quite nasty. In mid 80s Ugo Manera and his friend Isidoro Meneghin tried to open a new route more or less parallel to Coracrazion. Ugo wrote a very graphic description of their eventual retreat, saying that if it wasn't for "Isi" being the best big wall climber Italiy had at the time (and a master of placing protection) they would had died there.
Other routes on this side of the MB are unrepeated not because of any inherent danger, but simply because they're rarely in condition, or with.complicate approaches, or simply because they're in unfashionable spots and nobody will get any kudos for climbing there (except from me or Lindsay Griffin!
)
On the 20th of November British Alpinists Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker added a major new line to the north east face of Mont Grouvetta, Mont Blanc range, Italy.
