In reply to Franz the Stampede:
Firstly neither the article of his website say anything besides the fact that he has competed at the top level, so I'm not sure where you are finding cognitive dissonance. He did have one very good year:
2008:
1st place Overall World Cup
(Lead & Boulder)
1st place World Cup Reunion (FRA) Bouldering (beating Fischuber)
1st place World Cup Fiera (ITA) Bouldering (beating Fischuber, McColl, Gelmanov, etc.)
1st place World Cup Imst (AUT) Lead (Beating Ramonet, Scubert Mzarek, etc.)