&In reply to Mick Ryan - UKC and UKH:
Those with an agenda are quick to shoot without looking (for they want to say what they have to say, and there's no point to slowing that down by considering facts ...)-: the Outside article is self-contradictory, and clearly the output of someone without qualms of spewing BS to support his cause.
And the sad thing is that this time of tragic result IS apt for making a strong recommendation for SAFETY, for checking oneself (and buddy) pre-climb, especially in gym atmosphere where distractions are greater. Missing the opportunity to drive home this lesson, for the lust of bashing the bowline, is worth a few good slaps upside the head!
> On November 29, Yosemite climbing legend John Long was seriously injured in an accident at a Los Angeles gym when his bowline knot came undone. ...
> How did John Long, who was a member of the party that made the first one-day ascent of the Nose and wrote a series of books titled How to Climb, manage to nearly end himself in a gym? Long himself attributes the accident to human error. Speaking to Rock and Ice, he admitted he forgot to finish tying his knot. "I screwed up big," Long said.
The author conveniently --for his agenda-- neglects to articulate what this "finishing the knot" amounted to : it amounted to TYING THE KNOT AT ALL ! (How many untied knots would've done better, do you think?)
> But there's another culprit in this story: the bowline knot itself.
...
Ah, here's his agenda : guilty, nevermind evidence.
> The bowline is also more complex than the figure-eight,
I admit to chuckling at this nonsense sometimes. It's hard to see something if one doesn't look at it; familiarity should be as easy to gain for the bowline as anything. I do confess, though, to finding the common presentation of the knot showing the wrong *side* : it should show the bowline in the same perspective as the sheet bend is commonly shown (but usually it's the flipped-around side presented).
> which means it's easier to screw up and harder for a partner to check visually. This is the mistake that injured Long and killed David Rothman, a 73-year-old British climber who fell to his death in April.
...
This is pure BS, and the coroner who made such strong unjustified assertions in his official report should be at least reprimanded for that, if not more severely punished --it was without basis. Rothman fell, detached from the rope, which hung w/o any knot. THAT indeed shows that he'd not tied a fig.8; it does NOT show that he DID tie <anything>, and had perhaps only reeved the rope through his harness and then --like world-class climbers Lynn Hill & John Long-- gotten distracted and not completed tying in. Which would have the same effect were the intended tie-in knot the fig.8.
(But this reasoning doesn't support the writer's agenda.)
> It's true that, carefully tied and tightened, a bowline can be a fairly safe tie-in knot, and it's tempting to think, I won't make their dumb mistake. But it's also true that many, if not most, rock climbing fatalities are the result of "dumb mistakes," whether that's clipping into a carabiner that's not secured to the anchor or rappelling off the end of a rope. No one is immune to the occasional lapse, not even a master like John Long, so it makes sense to use a system that is as foolproof as possible.
The "dumb mistake" was in NOT TYING IN; the choice of knot isn't in the game at this stage.
But this article went to press, didn't it; and the Net is already filled with echoes of "bowline came undone".
Damn sad, angering, but all too typical.
And, again, these bowline-bashers miss the opportunity to emphasize the point about using safe climbing procedures of checking tie-in & belay.
*kN*