In reply to alanlgm:
> (In reply to fozmeister)
> [...]
>
> There are plenty of training plans all over the Web and i have butchered a few to meet my needs but the trouble with them is that they do not include any warm up or preperation excersises they are just teh training plan.
>
This post is by Carlisleslapper aka Dan Varian of Beastmaker:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10876.msg198885.html#msg19888...
Warm ups:
The best way to warm up on it is to get an old chair and put it roughly2-3feet behind the board and stick a leg on it for your first hangs (with your other leg guarding against un expected pings (if you only have 1 leg this may be difficult, and a hard decision between warming up well or falling on your back might have to be made)),
I go 20 degree sloper, sets to: 1 hand jug 1 hand big slots , to dragging the slots, then crimping them, after a bit of a rest and shake of the arms i then move on to pockets front, middle, back, and then onto the 35 degree slopers.
I then sack the session off if i feel bad on these after a few reps. Or get crushing if it feels like i just about only need one arm (personal reference only)
I'd agree if your only using 50% of the board in general sessions it'll be harder to warm up on, so the chair/pulley/bungee option would help with this best.
I generally allow 30minutes to get fully warm and recruited/ to expect some power to start arriving in my arms, before that i'm quite patient.