In reply to tsarted: just been up Gendarme Ridge - west face - the turf is starting to freeze at about 950 & there is some Ice forming. Looking at the east face on the way back, there are still some large cornices with slump fractures present. There looks to be lots of snow in the gullies but the buttresses are black( not surprising) where the sun has hit but in shelter there icicles forming near the top. Note that the snow is iron hard which makes for great placements. I'll post some pics later.