In reply to Gile5: I'm currently reading "Kamet Conquered" by F.S.Smythe.
It's a 1930's book accounting the first successful expedition to Kamet, beautifully written and very historical, also fascinating to hear his ideas about the future of mountaineering.
"It is safe to predict that in another hundreds years, or even less, Himalayan mountaineers will regard with amazement the gasping struggles of their predecessors. They will be acclimatised to altitude physically and mentally, and by then physiologists should have discovered some artificial means of adapting the body to the lack of oxygen at great altitudes."