UKC

Does anyone have up-to-date info on the cascades?

OHM route book http://www.ohm-chamonix.com/info-montagne-cahier-de-courses-211000000.html has people having done Deferlente & EMHM recently

Are those still good & what else is in nick?

In Argentiere this weekend & reluctant to bother driving to Cogne for a day

Thanks

In reply to Carless: given that the reports are from two days ago, I think we can assume EMHM will still be in good nick!

tip for access from personal experience. Don't mess about trying to go to the bottom via the side, ab down from the buiilding directly above if you are in the first bin (thus avoiding people climbing up). we got horribly lost and knackered trying to find where to ab down from by not going straight to the top but cutting up from the pierre a ric piste.

In reply to smithaldo:

Thanks
I've done EMHM, Deferlente, Nuit Blanche and another on that side in the past, so I'm trying to see what else may be in

Agree that the side/bottom approach to EMHM is knackering even if you know the way - access to Deferlente & Nuit Blanche is trivial by comparison

Never done any on the Shiva side
Do you know if access is still considered very dodgy?

In reply to Carless:

Any of the Cham crowd back in yet?

In reply to Carless: Nuits Blanches good today but hasn't been climbed much so it's hard work. Folk in the Scottish Secteur, Deferlante etc good too. Opposite side was looking pretty good too. Plenty of ice. Pics here http://www.frostguiding.co.uk/blog/389/index.html

In reply to graham F:

Many thanks for that - Nuits Blanches looks very entertaining in those conditions

Might have to go and look at Shiva etc

What's the best approach these days?
Ski-in/ab/climb/skin-out or walk across glacier/climb/ab/walk-out