/ Mont Aiguille

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brokenbanjo - on 23 Jan 2013
Any recommendations on which route to do for a novice leader? Just seen a photo of this amazing lump of rock and thought I have to do it, so planning on scaling it in July.
AdrianC - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to brokenbanjo: The route that's the normal descent has a few pitches on it - not sure of the grade but it's such a wonderful summit. Have only done the Pilier Sud route which is about French 5+, I think, with some entertaining rock and route-finding.
Enty - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to brokenbanjo:

1st time for a Novice just go for the Voi Normal and see how you feel - it's a polished 3b!!

I've done La Tour des GĂ©meaux 3 times which goes at 5cA0.

Now it's very straight forward climbing with lots of fixed pro but a set of wires will reduce any runouts between pegs.

Pitch 4 is the crux - the topo gives it 5c A0 and it is usually done with a quick pull on a peg.

Route finding from the main section of climbing (after pitch 6) can be awkward but all the info you need is on camp to camp - see below:


Here's my topo: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=84942
And a (slightly tilted) here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=84940pic


brokenbanjo - on 23 Jan 2013
In reply to Enty:

Thanks loads for this. Just one of those things that when I saw it on screen it screamed 'CLIMB ME NOW!'.
kenr - on 25 Jan 2013
Tour des Gemeaux would be a lot for a novice leader. Note that the first pitch has a couple of moves which are very height/reach dependent (FR "morpho"), so if you're significantly shorter than average, watch out.
Also the first move onto the wall is pretty intimidating for a new leader of any height. And the move around the corner to get in position for the A0 are pretty intimidating (on polished footholds).

Also my feeling was that the Tour des Gemeaux route is less than the most interesting climbing I've done in France -- it would be far less popular if it were not on Mont Aiguille.

Voie Normal is a better choice for a new leader.

Note that the normal descent with rappels (double ropes required) is not trivial for inexperienced followers - (this applies for the Voie Normal as well as Tour des Gemeaux).


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