In reply to Heike:
Hi,
some beta from FWA:
I was lucky to climb what I thought was Damnation in Feb/Mar 1982 in good conditions - i.e. neve down the back of the top groove.
At the time, I thought it was a good practice route for bigger things and thought no more of it.
Later I bumped into Andy Nesbit, who asked me about it. So I reluctantly gave him a brief verbal description - along the lines of, "the middle set of grooves high up. 2 pitches Grade IV."
Next thing I know Genie appears in the Guidebook - named, graded and written up by Mr Nesbit - but not what I had climbed. WTF?
Belay on first pitch was a dead boy - half driven in a neve ledge.
Last pitch 1/2 way up, I placed a bomber channel peg runner - which always boosts the confidence. My second left it in.
Sounds like something was out of condition when you climbed it?
Davie