UKC Forums - Protection on nethermost gully.

Protection on nethermost gully.

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dougyt26 01 Feb 2013

Was just going to solo it but now im taking some one with me that is new to winter conditions and was thinking he would appreciate the feeling of security so id like to know what protection was appropriate to take up Nethermost gully?

LakesWinter 01 Feb 2013

In reply to dougyt26: I remember the rock being pretty shattered but I think I used some rock belays and maybe a buried axe too. I also took someone up it as their first route, it's a good line.

Wesley Orvis 01 Feb 2013

In reply to dougyt26:

Nothing but snow anchors from memory!!!!

Wesley Orvis 01 Feb 2013

In reply to Wesley Orvis:

My first ever winter route and lead.

sbc_10 02 Feb 2013

In reply to dougyt26:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=108393

If the snow/ice is in good nick then the usual techniques apply, but if it is thin and the snow is powdery or unconsolidated, I remember it being difficult to get good rock belays. The rock is there, but not blocky enough to provide obvious nut or sling protection without excavating.