In reply to Monk:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> [...]
>
> People do it all the time on the Southern Sandstone (although I prefer a dynamic rope for the top outs). I prefer a static for shunting though - it's not unusual for me to have 30+ metres of rope out, and a dynamic rope stretches much too far to comfortably work routes, especially when the hard bits are near the ground. I'd imagine this is less of a problem on short routes.
I generally have it snug early on, the same as top-rope belaying really. Southern sandstone is a special case.
> I am also particular about having virtually no slack in the system, and have arrived at a setup where the ascender is always right by my waist with no slack.
Me too. I usually make a Parisienne Baudrier and have the ascender at chest height.