UKC

It's time to upgrade my old hardshell and Like everyone else, I'm after the best waterproof for my money. I've tried several on and it now comes down to these 4:

RAB Momentum: http://rab.uk.com/products/mens-clothing/shell/p-momentum-jacket-p.html

RAB Stretch Neo: http://rab.uk.com/products/mens-clothing/shell/p-stretch-neo-jacket-p.html

Marmot Alpinist: http://marmot.com/products/alpinist_jacket

Montane Superfly XT: http://www.montane.co.uk/range/men/shell/superfly-xt-jacket

Basically, I'm after a jacket that can do everything. From tackling the extreme spring weather fronts on Dartmoor, To spindrift and blizzards both in Scotland and the Alps.

cheers

In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:

What size are you?

In reply to MtnGeekUK: i'm a medium. I have an old Berghaus Axis jacket which has been going strong for 6years but is now no longer very waterproof and not very colourful.

In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:
I have a rab momentum, I like it, good fit, design, packs v small and very light. But im not sure its robust enough or waterproof 'enough' for what you want. If I was still doing much winter climbing id buy something else.

In reply to Mr-Cowdrey: Just my bit about the Montane waterproof jacket..Ive had two,the second came direct from the factory to replace the first,both were unwaterproof.But, maybe i was unlucky and got jackets from a bad batch of material. Oh yeah 2 year gap between getting the jackets, one orange,one red..

I've had the Rab Stretch Neo for a little over a year now and I'm very, very happy with it. It breathes noticeably better than my old Gore-Tex Pro Shell (that cost twice as much). The hood is excellent, moves well with your head and fits well over a helmet. The fabric feels nicer than regular hard shells too, it doesn't rustle like a crisp packet and has proved to be just as, if not more so, durable than any other hard shell I've used.

I've used this jacket for everything from winter mountaineering to mountain biking to backpacking in the southern Appalachian mountains in high heat and humidity.

My only very slight criticism would be that the pockets are of no real use as hand warmers, unless you want to wander around with your arms crossed.

You may also want to check out the Rab Myriad which is new for this Spring, it's another jacket using a slightly lighter weight of Neoshell and with a different pocket layout: http://rab.uk.com/products/new-for-2013/new-shell_1/p-myriad-jacket-p.html

In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:

So i've striked off Montane and the RAB momentum, am almost on the verge of buying the Stretch Neo, but have also come across the MH quasar pull over http://www.mountainhardwear.com/Men's-Quasar%E2%84%A2-Pullover/OM4498,...

what does everyone think?

In reply to Mr-Cowdrey: I've decided on the Marmot Spire jacket instead now as I couldn't find the Stretch Neo in Medium in Spring colour ANYWHERE on the web.http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=1264

In reply to Mr-Cowdrey: Did you see my review of the Marmot Alpinist? http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=3282 They seem to have given up on the zip link idea that mine had two seasons back but otherwise it looks very similar. It's far from light and packable, but it's noticeably warmer in bad weather than lighter, softer shells. There was something in those recent technical articles on insulation here on UKC that supported this. Stiffer and heavier jackets don't deflect in hard winds and compress insulation below or move the warm air around inside, hence they do work better in crappy weather. But when you climb in it, the jacket works really nicely, moving with you not against you. Bloody expensive, but in bad weather out in the mountains it's a reassuring coat to be wearing!

In reply to TobyA: yeah I had a read and was pretty much set on that one, until I saw the price! but even then, i knew i couldn't afford it, but still contemplated it.

In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:

I'm in the same boat with regard to a new hardshell, and I'm swaying towards the Spire as it just looks bombproof. Did you try it on in a shop, as I'd appreciate some feedback on sizing? None of my local shops seem to stock it.

In reply to Taurig:

What size are you?

ME Tupilak II for sale in xl?

In reply to Mr-Cowdrey: I have seen them on big sale at the end of a season, but you might have to wait another month or two still and be lucky I guess.

In reply to Taurig: Marmot medium fits me great whilst RAB medium doesn't - normally RAB is too tight across my chest. I'm a bit under 5'10", reasonably broad in the shoulders and chest (I have IIRC a 40 inch chest?) and am about 32-34 waist. So I'm more stocky than some. If you're slim for your height probably RAB might be a better fit, if you're broad in the chest/shoulders for your height then Marmot (and Patagonia) is a good bet.

In reply to Taurig: yeah i tried it on at GoOutdoors. I'm pretty much the same build as TobyA: 39-40in Chest, 32in waist, 6ft 1in and the medium fitted well with a mid layer (Marmot Varient Jacket). I have alot of rab gear and have found that their Medium sizes fit almost perfectly, just a tad baggy around the waist and I agree with TobyA, can be quite tight across the chest with layers underneith. Marmot on the other hand have quite a slim fit round the waist (on me that is) which i quite like, as there's no excess material hanging out when wearing a harness or rucksack for rain to pool in. But at the same time can accommodate a mid layer under too.

Cheers Toby and Chowdrey. Toby sounds like I'm pretty much the same size as you, besides having a 38 chest. Rab medium tends to be a close fit round the chest on me but not too bad, it's the beer gut accomodating waist that's a bit irritating. Hmm, wonder if I could risk a mail order Spire without trying it on first? First world problems eh?!