UKC

Can anyone suggest a good place to go for someone who is looking for nice (unpolished) slabby routes around F4, F5 and, at a push, F6a.

Kalymnos has been a good venue over the years but the prices this year seem extortionate. I have been to the Ardeche, which was good but most of the easier routes were very, very polished, hence not so easy!

Shoulders are buggered, so the only chance of keeping on the rock are slab routes.

In reply to Bob the Bear: costa blanca, new guide book out this month too

In reply to Bob the Bear:

The new Rockfax guide to Ariège has 438 routes of 6a and below, most of them slabby, on 3 rock types and both single- and multi-pitch routes. Probably no more than a dozen or so of these are notably polished.

If you want more info I'm happy to help.

In reply to Bob the Bear:
hi bob

Have you thought about the haute alpes?

it is a great area for climbing at all grades, and has 300 days of sunshine a year.

There is

Ailefroide the amazing granite venue this is a side valley with a good campsite and bars, most of the routes are slabby and at all grades, not a huge amount of polish

there are also lots 50 or so limestone crags around the main valley with everything to go at


Rocher baron has one sector with lots at the grade you are looking at.

The clock town crag (Colets) has the same slabby routes

The top sector at traversers sector Jonathon is good but only a hand full or routes

There is an also a crag near Braincon that is all 3/4/5 slabby but I can’t remember the name.


The local climbing guide for the area is sold by Needlesports, and available at the following link. The guides have been updated twice recently and feature easy to follow instructions and topos of the are. http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Books-Maps-DVDs/Foreign-Climbing-Guid...

I live in the area so if you would like any info or advice get in touch

If you look up dream-trails.com on face book there are some pic’s of the area

In reply to Bob the Bear: ste victoire hundreds of slabby routes in your grade good french guidebook - go for deux aiguilles.

Many thanks for all who have offered some suggestions - gives me a few things to investigate over the next few weeks. Thanks again