UKC

A really interesting video has popped up on the UKC forums, creating a long and interesting discussion on ice climbing safety. UKC user Caspar has been out in the Northern Corries and he and his partner each took a fall from the popular ice climb Aladdin's Mirror Direct.

We've had a chat here at the UKC headquarters, and we've taken a few falls in winter ourselves, but we are of the opinion that lobbing off in winter is not to be recommended, especially if the gear you are relying on is an ice screw...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67789

In reply to UKC News: ever heard the phrase "that's like comparing apples and pears". the guys in the first vid don't know how to climb steepish ice at all, the guy in the second one does and his tools were not even 'that' close together, and that is rather harder than AMD. I think all this is glorifying a pretty stupid video about people who cant climb 'not even that' steep ice safely at all. Christ some of their swings made me wince.

In reply to smithaldo:

But we learnt a lot, and hopefully it won't happen again!

In reply to smithaldo:

But he says himself in the comment that it was a mistake forced by getting pumped. They wouldn't have been "that" close had they been vertically aligned, but I guess the vid shows they were too close for horizontal alignment!

In reply to UKC News:

eek terrifying watching his crampons nearly stamp on the rope in the fall. eeek sticking to trad!

In reply to UKC News: Christ ,I hope their Mums don't get to see this !
Slightly more seriously, I think the phrase 'learn to walk before running' springs to mind. I'm Mr Cautious, but 'having a go' and taking a few lobs doesn't seem a recipe for a long life in winter

In reply to jandyd05:

Erm yeah - stuff like letting go of your axes, knocking your mate's axe back down for him to catch in his teeth, etc. I might manage a Grade III as a second if lucky guys so I am not really expert enough to throw further snowballs.

However - they have more balls than Wimbledon fortnight!

In reply to UKC News:
Will Gadd wrote a blog post about a video similar to this one. I thought his comments were really interesting, especially about the amount of ice climbing you should do on top rope before beginning to lead.

http://willgadd.com/ice-climbing-is-not-rock-climbing/

In reply to UKC News:
interesting. I love the hooking technique!!!! I personally belt the placements in even if there is a hook. (having had a few blow on me in the past) The lone axe mid ice fall made me laugh and reminded me of a friend loosing his until Tim Neil found it for him. Still in the piece of moss a year later!!.

My top tip for what its worth. If you are that blow, clip your axe (have a little tat loop on the bottom of the pommel) and have a rest. Not exactly 'British' but all the French big boys do it.

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