So it's wet and cold and DIY has lost its appeal so I dragged out some old climbing mags. In Crags 16(it used to be the best peakcentric climbing mag)
I came across an article, Johnathon Livingstone Steelfingers by Pete Livesey
he makes a lot of predictions which have happened but I think he got the title wrong,it should have said Adam Ondra, but it deserves a reprint either here or in one of the current mags!