In reply to Mick Ryan - UKC and UKH:
I noticed that indoor climbing in the US is already vastly more commercialized than in the UK. At my friends local wall you need to book a full day course, then pass a test to be allowed to belay (and the technique they taught my friend was sloppy at best). Then again you need to take a course and a test before you are allowed to lead climb, and the test includes (for your first time doing real leading) missing the top clip and taking a lob. Of course you have to pay extra for all these privileges.
This is what I am most worried about, because I am moving over there for a while later this year. Luckily its in California so hopefully I'll be able to avoid pulling plastic altogether!
