In reply to Bruce Hooker:
> (In reply to george mc)
>
> Thanks, I got it in the end. Now I am a member of "drop out" too which might be useful.
>
> No mention of the old fashioned ice axe belay though, I suppose they are really out these days? Can't help feeling that the double buried axe of mammoth snow bollards would be a bit slow for anything except short climbs though.
Hi Bruce
The old style ice axe belay has been out of general use for a long time now. Even going back to the early eighties and beyond (according to my 'experienced' sources) because - it as very unreliable. Bit like snowstakes placed vertically. In saying that if the snow is very hard (and assuming you could get the thing in) then it might work but trying to insert a vertical axe into a pavement like snow pack is no mean feat...
Double buried axe? You mean the cattlehorn arrangement? Nope not that slow - quick to do and if working in a shite snowpack gives a reasonable increase in strength that's worth the time and effort.
Giant bollards - well you'd really only use a bollard for descending eh? In which case abbing off the thing I'd be taking the time to dig a massive one (and have done so on several occasions - bailing of Centre post direct and an ice route in the Rockies - both done using huge bollards in shite snow).