UKC

NEWS: Female Ascent of M14 Mixed Route for Lucie Hrozova

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 UKC News 19 Feb 2013
Lucie Hrozova on Spiderman M13, 5 kbFemale Czech climber, Lucie Hrozova, has made an early repeat (possibly the third ascent?), of Robert Jasper's test-piece Iron Man (M14) at Eptingen in Switzerland.



This is the hardest mixed route climbed by a woman.
Robert Jasper told us about the crag:

"The Eptingen waterfall area is...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67837
 TobyA 19 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News: Is it actually a "mixed" route or rather a pure drytool route? I remember in the vid Jasper does it when the waterfall is very much water, but I don't know if it gets ice on it in normal winter conditions?
 edinburgh_man 19 Feb 2013
In reply to TobyA:

It's dry.

I think it was flashed by Charly Fritzer.
 TobyA 19 Feb 2013
In reply to 7bforever: Don't know if it really matters, but it seems that mixed routes with big ice sections need a different skill sets to totally dry routes, where just being unbelievably strong is the main thing! If you can climb 8b, hanging on tools on WI6 might not feel too hard but I suppose it still feels really scary!
 maybe_si 19 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News:

I heard on the grapevine that Heeyong Park (Korean beast) nearly got the onsight a few weeks back but had to settle for the tick second go...

 HeMa 19 Feb 2013
In reply to TobyA:

Well, the description on the Vid page states M/D14... so I'm gonna say drytooling. Not that it would prolly be difficult if the water were to freeze. After all, the protection is solely bolts, so wether you're climbing ice or crumbly rock doesn't really matter that much.
 maybe_si 19 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Was chatting to Robert Jasper last month, he mentioned that the waterfall does freeze but not every year, the route can be finished dry or up the icefall, apparentyl the grade isnt really affected either way but its just nicer to finished up the ice (if its there)
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