/ would this be ok for prusik loop

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anomm - on 19 Feb 2013

I had thought that 5mm was perfectly ok but then just as im about to order it says that they reccommend 7mm so though I would ask the experts.

Oceanrower - on 19 Feb 2013
In reply to anomm: Sorry, I use 6mm.

I know that doesn't help!
cuppatea on 19 Feb 2013
In reply to anomm:

I went for 5mm The rationale being that I'd rather have a bit more 'bite' even at the expense of a little smoothness that a thicker diameter would give.
lcullum7 on 19 Feb 2013
In reply to anomm: I use 5mm cord for my Prusiks and never had any real problems. They are very grippy on old 11mm ropes and when ascending a static, but having not tried other diameters I can't say if they are worse, but they are certainly OK.

Also Needle Sports sell 5mm cord cut to length for Prusiks with some advice here
Lion Bakes on 19 Feb 2013
In reply to anomm:

Perfect for 8 or 9 mm ropes. The greater the difference in diameters to better it'll grip / lock under load.
The Ex-Engineer - on 20 Feb 2013
In reply to anomm: I am equally happy using both 5mm and 6mm.

I would NOT use 4mm which I have seen others using. Equally, for recreational use 7mm is probably not ideal, although it is commonly used in MR and industrial rope access applications (which may explain the 'Beal recommendation').

In the last few years I've mainly used standard Mammut 5mm but that is because I acquired an entire drum of it. It works fine, however I still have an older and 'softer' 6mm prusik loop of unknown manufacture which arguably handles better. Some cord handles better than others, but I couldn't say which.

If you are going to be heavily using your prusik loop(s), such as a back-up when abseiling, I would buy 6mm. However if the loops will hopefully spend the entire season on the back of your harness then there would be little reason not to buy standard 5mm.

As regards the lengths that Needlesport 'recommend' - http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Cord-Tape/Prusik-Loop-Cord/Prusik-Loop... - I find the shorter lengths; 1.25m @ 5mm and 1.5m @ 6mm work best for general use.
anomm - on 20 Feb 2013
In reply to The Ex-Engineer: Thanks very much - ordered 6mm ones and going to be regularly using it to back up belay. Quite glad i checked then as 7mm would probs be overkill

(oh and incase anyone is interested i actually ordered of facewest.com as they were very cheap for some beal cord)

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