UKC

hi there.

Falling technique for slabs gradient Dependent.

I have heard stories of running down slabs to control a speedy descent. I have heard of people taking the slide like a man and I have heard of people pushing off in a traditional manner. Pro's and Cons.....

Running.
Pro's: Controlled.
Con's: Hard to get into position, Unreliable, Spinning when rope become taught.

Sliding.
Pro's: Slowing the descent, Least pressure on gear due to direction of pull and shock reduction.
Con's: Hitting things on the way down, Pain.

Pushing away from rock face.
Pro's: Most comfortable.
Con's: Most pressure on belayer, Pendulum, Shock loading.

Any personal stories?

Obviously falls cannot always be (climber) controlled and most uncontrolled falls could be a mixture of the above.

In reply to Crimpchimp: I favour trying not to.

In reply to Submit to Gravity: How ironic.

In reply to Crimpchimp: I once read that Alan Hargreaves used to "run" down his route at Stanage edge.

In reply to Crimpchimp: if you are falling off slabs at an angle that is suitable to run down,I doubt you would have the ability to even run.

When I've fell off slabs I've just scapped down.before you even know it you are falling and sat on the rope wondering what happened.
Better off learning slab climbing skills than falling skills.

In reply to Crimpchimp:

Thick pants / gaffa tape.
Have heard tale of folk climbing routes at the Etive Slabs in leathers

Personally never felt in the position to turn and run when a slab has gone wrong. They tend to be very thin and a fall would normally come from a foot loosing position, which leaves no time to correct.
Gear is often also thin, or distant, so pushing off would seem to be increasing the risk of the placement failing. You are probably going to hit and slide again before you reach your gear anyway.

You could sacrifice the rubber on your shoes, slide backwards whilst frantically paddling with your hands. Can control the speed of some smaller falls, but beware of ledges flipping you upside down!

But best of all, dont fall off! Took a 10m or so slide off Serenity Crack on my second day in Yosemite and had to suffer the cracking scabs all the way up the right side of my body for the rest of the trip!

In reply to Crimpchimp:

Depends on the angle I think.

A shallow angle would be more 'runnable'. Running backwards if it's just a short section can be effective.

On steeper slabs, the tendency is to just slip and slide if you were not expecting a fall. If you get time to act, the hop skip and jump method can be used to slow your acceleration and avoid minor obstacles. It is said that Johnny Dawes ran down from the crux of Obsession Fatale and landed like a cat.

In reply to Crimpchimp: like this ? at 1.32
youtube.com/watch?v=9kWOifXlXKA&

In reply to auld al: or here:

youtube.com/watch?v=tkO-V71lPg0&

skip to 5:45 if you're short of time!

In reply to Crimpchimp:

If it really is a slab, stay on your feet and slide, hopefully you will catch something and stop. On pure friction your boots might warm up and stick better too!


Chris

In reply to JamieSparkes:

hah, I was going to post that too!

In reply to Crimpchimp: Great stuff. Just a subject which has interested me because I hear of different stories.
I wasn't looking for personal advice just peoples opinions. Thanx guys and gals

In reply to Fraser: great vid!!

In reply to Jimbo C:

He's 'other worldly' in his sense of balance and abilities though, imho.

In reply to JamieSparkes:
I think that how you fall on a slab generally depends on the route itself. I was quite lucky on El Vino, as my hand missed the hold and I accidentally span around all I had to do was run down. I can't imagine consciously turning around mid-fall and running to safety. But it could be an option if you have a chance to think about it, ie the last resort if you get stuck!
On some other slabs in that video we were just sliding down (Entropy's Jaw) or pushing back (Silk - since it's quite steep).
It is worth thinking about the best way to fall before setting off on a slab (or any route), but falling off slabs is definately best avoided. Once you get on the route focus on the climbing and just go for it.

In reply to Crimpchimp: Levi 501s

In reply to Fraser: Great video!