UKC

A decent grade 1 in Glen Coe?

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 Tony the Blade 23 Feb 2013

Happy Saturday all... I assume most of you are out on the hill, happy days!

On Tuesday I'll be taking a mate out in Glen Coe area, I've not climbed around there before so thought I'd take the collective thoughts of the UKC massif.

I'm after somewhere I can take him, we shall do basic winter skill stuff (avalanche awareness, axe arrest etc etc) and the hopefully take in a decent Gd1 climb... does such a location exist?

Many thanks in advance.
 Mark Bull 23 Feb 2013
In reply to Tony the Blade:

NC Gully, Stob Coire an Lochain, or Central Gully on Bidean would fit the brief.
 Pids 23 Feb 2013
In reply to Tony the Blade:
Take a wander up the lost valley and up onto bidean from there, loads of places to practice skills and the head wall will provide a bit of steep fun

Or go for strong na lairig, a wee bit of scrambling and exposure but all good

 Gazlynn 23 Feb 2013
In reply to Tony the Blade:

Broad gully in SCNL mate.


cheers

Gaz
 JamesRoddie 23 Feb 2013
In reply to Tony the Blade:

Plenty of Grade I ground in between the West top of Bidean nam Bian and Stob Coire nam Beith - far less likely to be crowded than Coire nan Lochan at the moment.
 Joak 23 Feb 2013
In reply to Tony the Blade:
>
>
> we shall do basic winter skill stuff (avalanche awareness,
>
Looks like you've cracked it for your trip north Tony, might be toiling to find a wee bit of multi layered snow pack for your avalanche awareness demo tho, everywhere is covered in the sort of snow you only ever dare dream aboot HaHa, enjoy!!
In reply to Joak:
> (In reply to Tony the Blade)
> [...]
> Looks like you've cracked it for your trip north Tony, might be toiling to find a wee bit of multi layered snow pack for your avalanche awareness demo tho, everywhere is covered in the sort of snow you only ever dare dream aboot HaHa, enjoy!!

Hell yes! Winner winner chicken dinner!!!

Many thanks to all for your comments. I'll take notes and have a look in my guides.

 Milesy 23 Feb 2013
In reply to Tony the Blade:
> I'm after somewhere I can take him, we shall do basic winter skill stuff (avalanche awareness, axe arrest etc etc) and the hopefully take in a decent Gd1 climb... does such a location exist?

You will be able to teach cramponing skills no bother but you might struggle to find somewhere to practice self arrest. The snow is like concrete. If you can find a spot in the sun maybe. You might be able to find some soft snow on the easy angled basin when you first hit the snowline before the final push up into the coire in Stob Coire nan Lochan, there is usually some sunny bits there.

I went up NC gully on Thursday. There are old footsteps from when the snow was soft you can ladder up or if you move off the side you can front point it. Has a nice enclosed gully atmosphere compared to Broad Gully.
In reply to Milesy:

Great info - thanks for taking the time to post.

In reply to Tony the Blade:

I was hoping to have a spare pair of B2/B3 boots to lend him, however my new boots haven't arrived in time (sad face).

Is there anywhere in/near Glen Coe that he could hire a pair from?

Cheers
 Milesy 23 Feb 2013
In reply to Tony the Blade:

Here is some pics from thurs.

http://atthebealach.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/stob-coire-nan-lochan-nc-gully-s...

Glasgow on the way up or Fort William is all I can think of.

In reply to Milesy:

Wow! Looks perfect! Thanks.

Re: boots - yeah, probably Alan Kimber.
 Mike-W-99 23 Feb 2013
In reply to Tony the Blade:
Tony, I've hired b3 boots from the ice factor before.

Enjoy, conditions are superb at the moment.
 Fiona Reid 23 Feb 2013
In reply to Tony the Blade:

Nevisport and Ellis Brigham in Fort William both hire kit. If you're combing from the south, Tiso Outdoor Experience in Edinburgh and The outdoor shop in Killin hire stuff to.

Enjoy the good snow.
Cheers
Fiona
 isi_o 23 Feb 2013
In reply to Mike_Watson_99:
Hi Mike,
The Ice Factor don't do outdoor hire any more I'm afraid, although we are sometimes able to provide emergency spares/ repairs if needed. Fort William is the next nearest, or Tiso in Glasgow in the way so long as they don't have a course of their own running as then they won't book gear out.
Cheers,
Isi
 DH3631 24 Feb 2013
In reply to Tony the Blade: Alpine Bikes in the Fort (High St) also do hire kit including scarpa mantas I believe.
In reply to DH3631:

many thanks to all for taking the time to post. Looks like FW then.
 Alex Slipchuk 25 Feb 2013
In reply to Tony the Blade: for sale. A pair of plastics and messner scisssor poons. Size 9 too small for my boats.
In reply to The Big Man:

Thanks for that Big Man but not looking to buy as my mate only needs them for a one off. I've lent him my spare crampons.

Thanks anyway.
Paula 25 Feb 2013
In reply to Tony the Blade:

Not sure if you're sorted, if not, the Cotswold shop in Fort William hire them for very little money. I found out this weekend.
In reply to cushie:

Thanks - sorted now through West Coast Mountain Guides, spoke to Sue who said we can get them this evening if we want... life saver as it means we can now head out early tomorrow.
In reply to Milesy:

We ended up doing North Gully, my novice mate didn't like the look of NC Gully as it looked steeper and higher than North.

It was a good day out and mate is buzzing after his first (and only) winter climb.

Heading to Aonach Mor West Face today to see what Western Rib or Cave Gully looks like.

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