UKC

Thinking of heading up to the dolomites around 22nd of May to do some rock climbing. Never been before, is it gonna be far too cold? We dont have or plan on doing any ice/snow stuff just some big 10-20 pitch routes of around UIAA V

In reply to Lunar25: It depends on where. Down by Lake Garda may is a fantastic time as it's not too hot by then. You could look at the walls in the Sarca valley. Don't know much about it but theres plenty of info. Up in the main dolomites, if you are on south facing walls and are prepared to do things with an open mind as to retreats you can do things. For example civazes has a short walk in, some abseil retreats (not the easiest to find but if you are versed in alpine climbing you should be fine). High up there will be lots of snow still, so if you plan on walking off be aware of this and equip yourself appropriately.

Thanks, I'm fairly familiar with that stuff but my partner isn't so might try and leave it another month till late June to complicate things less. Really keen to get on torfana di rozes south face route. The traverse looks stunning!

In reply to Lunar25:

There are an awful lot of routes in the Dolomites, many with heart stopping traverses, so I wouldn't give so much priority weighting to doing a particular route (if I was you). Every group has its stunners.

In reply to Lunar25:
As Mike says, one of the biggest problems is actually getting down off the longer routes, via feratta ladders encased in ice metres thick, cables missing completely and so on. And on a lot of the higher routes even south facing the top cracks turn into hundred metres long ice filled nasties and so like me you can end up having to retreat down the north side which can be a full-on alpine experience in ones summer cragging outfit like sandals and no socks!

In reply to Lunar25: I would think twice about that route then. It's pretty high at the top, I.e. cold. When I went for the first time, my friends and I went in mid June and did a Vf on punta Anna, opposite the south face of t di r and there was still quite a lot of snow. We also had a crack at this route and ended up in the first amphitheatre on firm neve with only one ice axe looking at a long traverse. This summer I did the whole route and realised that the second amphitheatre is even deeper and gets less sun. Straight after this the route goes up some steep chimneys which I suspect would still hold ice at that time of the year. This time I did it in late August, the route was dry then, but on the summit and the descent there was still ice then! It's a stonking route, but very very complex to route find... Also you need to be well versed in pushing down on choss... And yes, the top traverse is beyond stunning, its some of the most exposed crazy ass hs climbing I've ever done. It makes your balls go right up inside...

In reply to Lunar25: In a word: NO.