In reply to petestack:
Shocked by the news, as is the whole Lochaber climbing community. Mark was as safe and steady a climbing partner as you could wish for, and a top gent through and through. He exemplified the spirit of gentle commitment that I most admire in other climbers - reflective and measured yet always motivated by the promise of fresh adventure. His movement on rock and ice was striking for its economy and grace, one of the most naturally efficient climbers I've ever seen. Yorkshire must have taught him well!
Certain memories will stick with me. Holding my 40-footer as I fell out of an out-of-condition Gardyloo Gully one November. He'd humored my foolish notion and slogged up to the route with me, then calmly organised our retreat while I gibbered and my axe remained in the high-point.
Stepping in to get us out of trouble when I'd got off-route and led us into no-man's land in the Cairngorms. Spotting the nominal chink in the armour above and pulling off a braver lead than I'd ever have attempted, treading lightly over disintegrating crud while the ropes arced runnerless behind him.
Always asking me what I'd been climbing when he visited the Ice Factor, and spending almost as much time talking about that as he did plastic-pulling, which I suspect he did somewhat on sufferance!
My thoughts, and those of many others, are with Caroline and Ruaridh right now. If you're reading this I hope our memories of Mark may bring some solace. He was a very special person.