UKC

Swiss route, Les Courtes North Face.

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 Dave Searle 02 Mar 2013
Hi everyone.

Here's a write up from my recent ascent of the Courtes.

http://davesearle.me/2013/02/27/swiss-route-solo/

Cheers
Dave
cb294 02 Mar 2013
In reply to Dave Searle:

Thanks for the write up, this route is definitely on my wish list (if I ever can leave my office).

CB
In reply to Dave Searle:

Nice one. How long did it take you? And how was the descent? Presumably the glacier was well filled in? I've been up to the Couvercle hut which isn't exactly skiable!

ALC
OP Dave Searle 02 Mar 2013
In reply to Dave Searle: It took me 4 hours on the way up. the descent was ok but the snow was a bit variable. It was pretty fast getting back to town though!!
 David Rose 02 Mar 2013
In reply to Dave Searle: Good effort, nice write-up. Well done.
 robdan 02 Mar 2013
In reply to Dave Searle: Well done Dave, nice write-up.
 Rick Asher 05 Mar 2013
In reply to Dave Searle: Hi Dave, impressive stuff; we're heading out in a couple of weeks and intend to climb the courtes, we've got ski mountaineering tackle but will probably leave them at the base of the route, what descent would you recommend on foot, returning to the argentiere glacier, cheers
Rick
 David Rose 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Dave Searle: The best descent is the northeast slope. This involves an exposed but straightforward descending ridge from the summit, and then, from the top of the obvious broad couloir, about 800m of steadily descending snow slope at the sort of angle where you will want to face in, but probably not rope up. Just be careful and don't trip up. Towards the bottom there will be the usual bergschrunds. Best to abseil over it/them. There are good rock anchors on the true left bank (right hand side facing in). After that you are down. Easy flat glacier back to the hut.
 James FR 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Dave Searle:

Nice write-up and blog!
OP Dave Searle 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Rick Asher: Yes I would agree the easiest way back down is down the North East slope back to the argentiere glacier. You might need to do a few abseils at the top.

Cheers
Dave
 Rick Asher 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Dave Searle: thanks for the info; do you know if the Doites is in nick (Ginat)if the weather holds for our trip, this would be our big tick
OP Dave Searle 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Rick Asher: Yer the droites is still in really good condition. the ginat would be fine. its prone to spindrift too tho so make sure you do it a few days after its snowed on a still day.

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