In reply to UKC News: Just to bring the thread back onto climbing from the normal UKC nonsense.
It is impressive just what you can get up in a pair of approach shoes. Admittedly I wouldn't fancy leading anything to hard on trad because of the insecurity of the foot placements and the fact I'm a wimp. But trad-wise I've top roped in trainers nearly as hard as I've ever led on trad, although I was a fair bit more pumped in trainers.
Makes you wonder how much of rock shoe marketing is just hype, that constant quest for perfection in the shoe to push the limits of friction and performance that little bit further. Considering all the novice climbers you see at the wall in their downturned high performance shoes because they think it'll give them that slight edge on the pink V4 problem they have been projecting when really it makes little difference There may be something in it for the f9b / Font 8C climbers of the world but I reckon for most a bog standard pair of climbing shoes will get them up everything they'll ever likely do.
P.S. I also wear a pair high end downturned shoes, then normally complain when I can't do slabs.