In reply to AlisonSmiles: Hi,
Spent 3 months (June, July August) in Iceland in 2011. Icelands one of those places where the touristy (accessible) things are really beautiful and amazing, but the hidden gems are so much better and very often not that far off the beaten track!
Ive gone around the Island 3 times, and walked South to North across it once, Ive done some of the summits on the west coast (Snaefellsnes peninsula) and South (Skaftafell). Also tried to walk from Djupavik (Northwest fjords) to Hornstrandir and that whole area, but a slipped disc and stomach infection turned me round.
In honesty that tourist destination are nice, apart from I would stay well clear from the blue lagoon fiasco! Its expensive and not that super special . If youve got 5 weeks, I would do the laugavegur, starting from Skogarfoss in the South, and go over Fimmvorduhals (I saw magma at the top) into Thorsmork and then start the trail. In good conditions, and fitness this should take you 3-4 days to Landmannalaugar. If you want to continue North from here PM me and Ill give detail. Ps. You can also send food via bus service to Landmannalauger if you want to stay around there for a week. There is so much more to see here (lml) than meets the eye!
now Snaefellsnes peninsula is huge, but so incredibly varied. So much hidden stuff on this peninsula! there is alot to see but it can be pretty far apart. Stykkisholmur in the north of the peninsula is a nice village, and I would highly recommend taking the ferry (if you look young you can blag your way on as a child, cheaper £, ive got a beard and it worked :P) north to the west fjords, and make a decision to go west or east. Id go west, get to Latrabjarg (big cliffs) and walk the entirety of them (14km) and get to a red sand beach camp, and come back the next day. You can hitch along the road around towards Isarfjordur, saves having to wait/pay for a bus. Dyjnandifoss is on the way, as well as many other hidden gems (hot pools, sorry wont divulge exact location). The peninsula around bildudalur has a road, known as the "icelandic death road" you can walk it 1-2 days, but my gosh is it scary in a car! totally worth the detour...at the tip of the peninsula is also Icelands most haunted valley :P Remember in the NW fjords, getting somewhere takes agggeeessss cause you have to travel the full length of the fjord!
If you can get to Hornstrandir then GO!
North: The hills behind akuryri are pretty magical, and easy to get lost in when the fog drops down. Godafoss is also up there, if your a competent swimmer and not to scared the waterfall area make for a fantastic (chilly) swim!
Myvatn is nice, but not that special....Hverfell makes for a fantastic scree (ash) run. I can provide you with details of a beautiful walk to the Akureyri walking club hut from myvatn. The hut is literally on the green border of the icelandic desert.
Asbergi Trail, start from Myvatn => Krafla => Dettifoss and then join the trail. the trail has an upper and a lower, the lower literally follows the mighty river, and is so much better! Iceland can be quite bleak at moments, but the lower trail makes you feel like in a jungle at times!
Im sure the east coast is nice, but I only ever got very wet and cold there....
Spent 5 days in Jokulsarlon (Glacier Lagoon) its magical and seriously have a wander up and onto the glacier, it offers so much magic at 3am when the sunrises!
Skaftafell is pretty fantastic, but get off the trail and just go rogue, we camped up high in the park (Sshhh!)
Well I could go on forever about where to go.
We camped 94 days in a row, and only hitched around
Camp Wild where you can, its free and so much nicer, if you camp in a town/nat park, just arrive late and leave early to not pay, or just make silly games with the wardens and youll probably get away with it :P
We ran out of money half way through, and then just asked around for food from shops/restaurants/gas stations at the end of the day, we probably ate better this way.
If you want some pics, see my Iceland 2011 folder here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rmcmurtry/sets/72157628867701727/
Or my friends pages: OR
http://willcopestakemedia.wordpress.com/
email him or myself for any more detail, info or whatever. Hope you have a great time