In reply to JimmyKay:
STG (Mar 2013):
More than 1 7 in spain maybe a grade push -
Tick
MTG (July 2013)
Climb harder than 7a in UK and abroad.
Lead E3 try onsight
LTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Great wall at squamish
7b -
Tick
E3/4
Weight loss! -
Tick
This Weeks Goals:
Crush! - I will let you lot decide
(I have included the full trip fo Sat 16/3 to sun 24/3)
S: tres ponts. Warmed up on the hardest 6a ever (6b+?). Next up I tried a slabby 7a got all the moves but one trying it on lead. Another go up on lead fell on the crux move pulled past rest clean to the chains. Stripped as it was sharp and did not want to split a tip again.
Tried a steep 7a but was too tired for the crux
S: raining am.
Lazy morning the headed to camarasa after a trip to the pastry shop for pain au chocolat.
Bit damp so got on a steep 7a+ to work on lead. Got all but one move first time up.
Rest.
Another go got a sequence for the crux but not strong enough for the move while holds were wet.
Next tried to onsight a 6c fell on the crux pulled back on did the move flashed the rest. Rested up the ticked 2nd go.
Next tried a pocketed wall at 7a felt nails I spelt tired stripped after 2nd go up
M: Bruixes - Terradets. Got there and all the 7a/7a+'s looked to be seeping/damp. So I got on Jam sesion after Ally's reccomendation. I wanted to get on tufas and the started fitted the bill. I thought sod it I try it on lead to begin with. I got to third bolt and fell reading the sequence wrong went bolt to bolt to half height.
I then went up on top rope doing all the of the moves but felt beyond me to put it together.
second go up on top rope I got all the moves and put some links and sequence together.
T: Collegats. Easy day. South facing crag high up in the sun
Tried a 5+ but the first move looked to of lost a few holds. Eventually committed after trying and reversing the first move 4/5 times. probably a Fb6A/+ boulder problem to a easier climbing (Fr5) and a steep pumpy top section (about a Fb5/+ boulder problem) so if that is 5+ ...
Next did a 6a that gets 6b on here 6b felt about right. Sat in the sun and belayed.
w: Tres ponts. Honestly I wanted to go back to terradets but happy for to get back to this amazing crag.
Warmed up trying to onsight a steep powerful tufa 7a fell at the crux. dogged to the top on lead. got a sequence. Rest.
Rp1 stupid mistake refined sequence. rest.
RP2 screwed up feet. fell. rest.
RP3 Tick went perfect first 7 of the year/trip.
Next I tried a 6b (gets 7a in UKC logbook probably right) and fell at first bolt slid down the start slab and hit my back on a rock. Sacked it off.
Ended the day onsighting a 6a+ that get 6b on here I would take 6c for it ..
T: Bruixes - terradets. Warmed up bolt to bolting Jam session. Then started RPing.
RP1 missed the slap to the jug and took a ride. Woo air time
RP2 same point pumped out and sweaty. The sun was now blaring on the crag with no cloud cover so rested for several hours.
RP3 had gone cold could not feel my fingers powered though to a new high point slipping when I could not feel what I was holding. one move for a poor rest (quick shake).
RP4 warmed up feeling tired. Again past the slap. did the travese and grabbed the sloped not the positive flatty taking a good fall as I skipped a bolt
new high point
RP5 really tired. Set of did the slap clipped the bolt and foot popped doing the next move. Gutted too tired to finish the route I sent nik up to strip it.
F: Tres Ponts. Tired from the day before.
Warmed up trying the start of a 7a I go on, saturday the start is the crux. Did not have the finger strength for it so binned it.
I tried the slabby 7a and worked a new sequence for crux but I was too knackered and worried on splitting a tip on the sharp holds to binned it. Generally rested pottered about and belayed. Think I may have climbed something on top rope to strip a route.
S: Bruixes - Terradets. Warmed up Bolt to bolting Jam sesion. Rested belayed nomics bolt to bolting it and rested a bit longer. I saw the sun was coming round to the face so decided to go while cold.
RP6 Bottom tufa section was fine used every half shake but kept moving to avoid flash pump. Did the slap and traverse fine skipped the bolt and big move to the flatty half rest. Clipped the bolt by my knee. did the next thinner section for the next too bolts fine taking the half shakes. Then came the mantel type move. I did it with a load grunt (not quite a power scream) and was at the good rest with two hard moves left new high point. Fingers felt numb rested until they were warm and I relaxed and fired out the top with no problem. BOOM! First 7b Get the f*ck in!!
Later I tried a very wet 6a+ and slipped off wet hold thought sod it and layed in the sun all day.
I also met sasha diguilian at the carg ...
she borrowed my guidebook. I also saw here pull some amazing move onsighting a 8a as a warm up .. she was doing the 7c start but felt okay and tried the extension ...
S: Tres points mate had a 7c+ project he wanted to finish so I thought sod it I will get on the sharp crimpy painful slab who cares if I split a tip its the last day. Safe to say I cruised it on the warm up setting the draws .. get it sat around and belayed all day.
I breifly tried the bottom of one of the project lines Nik reconned 8a/+ felt fb6b for just the first two bolts.
Ended the day repeating the powerful tufa 7a clean to strip the draws. Then drove to the airport and back home.
I also had to help dig my mates car out from under 3 ft of snow so he could drive home from mine.
Next week goals:
Rest maybe ...
What an awesome trip!
7bx1 (rp)
7ax2 (rp)
6cx1 (rp)
6bx3 all onsight 2 felt harder
6a+x1 probably 6b+
5+x1 at least 6b
9 days on climbing no full rest days climbing every day and got on a route in the 7's every day (except one).
Probably the best fit club post I have had to write.