In reply to BnB:
> For hard scrambles with ledges and only short pitches between them, is the consensus to carry just the half rope (even less weight to worry about) and climb it either as a single or doubled up, depending on pitch length, abrasiveness of rock etc?
Scrambles are a really tricky one. That is partly because a high level of skill is needed to attempt them in the most efficient manner. Many climbers are unaware of the various techniques that can be used as they differ from standard climbing are these days seems to be mainly the preserve of mountaineering instructors and guides. This is perhaps because when people attempt scrambles as an equally competent pair, they will generally be able muddle through so feel they have no real incentive to learn new skills.
The scenario of a competent leader (instructor) and a novice second is actually easier to deal with as there is a very well developed method by which scrambles are undertaken by professional instructors and guides. As mentioned above, that revolves around using a SINGLE strand of rope and quickly taking or dropping coils in order to transition quickly between different options (walking roped up, short roping, short pitching and long pitching).
In an ideal world, most instructors I know would prefer something like 35m of Beal Joker 9.1mm (especially if it isn't their rope!). However, in practice most instructors/guides will use perhaps 40m of 10mm single rope that has been retired from lead climbing. The hassle of the extra weight (and bulky coils) is offset by saving money and the fact a thicker rope is arguably better for short roping, providing a tight rope from a braced stance and body belaying. The reasons for using a older, thicker single rope are because scrambling is hard on ropes and the cost of replacing dedicated thinner ropes would mount up, rather than any great concern that a half rope is intrinsically unsafe on that sort of terrain. For example, in February the group I was in trashed one of PyB's expensive and nearly newy Jokers on Sron na Larig (Winter grade II)
Going back to the scenario of attempting scrambles as a pair of equals. As mentioned this is generally a more confused situation. A lot of the time (possibly the majority of time), it will transpire that the rope is carried, ready to be instantly deployed but is un-used.
But when the rope is to be used, the best option would be to approach the route in a similar manner as a guide/instructor would. Unfortunately many climbers/scramblers do not have the level of understanding needed to do this as the methods used are rather different from normal climbing and most crucially REQUIRE PRACTICE. This means that there is a fair degree of confusion and many people try to adopt a singular approach in an attempt to keep things simple. Some will try to pitch everything, others will try to move together throughout, neither of which is ideal.
This would be my standard set of options if on a harder scramble:
- initial easy ground - one member has all the rope taken in chest coils, tied off in two sets of coils and the pair solo together unroped.
- short pitches - leader drop first set of coils giving c.15m of rope, (second ties in if not already) and leads the short step with a belay if needed.
- long pitches - leader drops all coils giving 30m of rope and leads the pitch as per standard rock climbing.
- intermediate ground - pair moves together with anything from 10m-30m of rope out (rest in chest coils) and leader places regular runners. [Terrain such pinnacled ridges where this is appropriate is rare in the UK. Other options are often better.]
- easy sections - leader has chest coils but pair close up and carry rest of rope as hand coils.
As you can see, the various options all revolve around using a single strand of rope but varying the amount of rope out to suit the terrain. Also once tied in to the ends of the rope, it is normal to stay tied. As such, I just can't see any scenario where I would use twin/half rope technique on a scramble either with a novice nor an other experienced partner. Even in the Alps when carrying two ropes, as soon as I'm on easier ground, the second rope would be packed away and I'd revert to a single strand and taking coils as needed.
Anyway, hope that makes sense.