In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
I don't know the facts.
I didn't ever say or imply I did.
Your 1986 recollection is nice but not relevant.
Your both still speculating and getting excited about being called out.
Instruction or guides does not exempt you from risk. People do die being guided and for all you know that was exactly the case (you don't even know who was in this group, were there 5 instructors and 5 trainees, or one instructor/guide and this poor guy was climbing with a mate), u don't know!
I would hate to ever teach you anything, because: firstly you wouldn't listen, and secondly you probably sue me after it u screwed up.
Carry on speculating, I'm off out to Curbar!