In reply to jkarran:
> (In reply to hoodmonkey)
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> My response was to plyometrics who seemed unclear on this stating V8+ was a 'copout' of grading harder problems. Perhaps I misread him and you. I'd suggest if the wall has stuff graded V8+ and nothing harder they probably mean 'V8 or harder' which I can see being annoying if you actually care.
Oops, sorry; reading back my response it seems quite arsey - this wasn't intentional, really I was just having a general moan along the lines of the topic.
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> Frankly, if you can boulder this hard I'm surprised you've not developed reasonably good judgement as to how hard things are, if they're not graded, grade them then discuss with other people to get their feedback. That's all the setter is doing, using their judgement.
I have, which is partly why some nebulous grade is annoying. Yes, I can roughly work the grade out but why should I have to? If that's how the wall is grading problems why not just put V0+ on everything? Why get vague only above V8?
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> Do problems at or near your limit not generally seem a bit binary, those you can do you do relatively quickly, those you can't, you *really* can't thus they appear to be 'sandbags'. I always assumed this was the case. Perhaps V8+ is easy enough for you to be able to judge and your wall has a particular problem setting around that level, who knows.
Depends. Outside, no. I find there is a direct correlation between difficulty and amount of time it takes to tick. So 7B+ might take 2 or 3 sessions, 7C 7 or 8 etc., etc. Inside I have almost never got on a V8+ and been able to unlock it over a series of sessions. So are all the V8+'s I've tried inside actually *much* harder than V8+ and if so why can't they be graded more accurately?
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> SO your wall does use V8+ as simply >=8? Perhaps I misunderstood your grumble.
That's my point; how am I supposed to know?
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> True but it'll still just be an estimate. If they have a decent system of user feedback you might get a refined estimate (or you might not, it depends on the users!).
I've never seen a grade changed once a tag's been put on!
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> I'm not trying to have a go, I guess I just don't really care enough how hard someone else thinks something is to understand your frustration. I spent a lot of time developing problems in near total isolation, I just weighed them against each other and left it at that, I still have no idea how easy or hard they were on any standard scale nor am I actually that curious.
There's a lot of snobbery on this website when it comes to indoor climbing and it's frequently looked down on as being inferior to outdoor climbing - it's a point of view that I don't really understand, since I enjoy both and ultimately they are both as pointless as each other! However, I want a measure of my progress and vague grading does not help me do this. Furthermore I would like to track my progression outside versus my progression inside.
> jk