UKC

hi. am after some well protected severe climbs in the lakes for me to have a go at. would like to get comfortable leading this grade this year.
any recomendations?

In reply to dan bulman:

What about Original Route on Raven (Langdale)? One of the belay stances feels a little daunting as it's semi-hanging (if I remember rightly) but the gear is bomber. A lovely route!

(reposted with the right name - I'm an idiot... )

In reply to dan bulman: Bracket and Slab and the alphabet routes on Gimmer spring to mind most readily.

In reply to dan bulman:

You could consider a visit to Gouther crag in Swindale, which would offer 3 good quality climbs starting with a VDiff to get the feel of the rock-Truss buttress. Move round the buttress and do a short open book corner Severe called Sam-well protected once you are in the corner. Then move across to the next buttress to do the classic mild severe-Kennel Wall is well protected but not a pushover. Can be done as one 1 or 2 pitch. Only visit in high summer in a dry spell as the sun can take a while to come round and dry off any dampness. Enjoy

In reply to dan bulman: How about Donkey's Ears at Shepherds Crag? Might as well do little chamonix (v diff) whilst you're there.

In reply to Ann S: Amazed that 5 replies in and no one has mentioned Troutdale Pinnacle (Black Crag Borrowdale). Classic Rock tick. Good gear all the way. Some great postitions. Exposure. Be prepared for company at the weekend.

The Gouther suggestion is interesting, all those routes are good value. Unless we have a very wet spell they will be in condition from May onwards, Kennel Wall definitely one for the afternoon.

In reply to Andysomething: Problem with Troutdale Pinnacle ( though its what makes it so good) is the traverse across the slab 2/3rds of the way up. For someone not yet comfortable with leading severe it can seem very daunting particularly when all the gear pulls out as you move up to the pinnacle. I would avoid it as a first severe lead and concentrate on those on Shephards which are far nicer.

In reply to didntcomelast:

I'm not sure I agree that the traverse is the real crux at that grade (though point taken about gear lifting out) - the final moves on the top pitch are quite intimidating. But, anyway, I think this is probably fair as a reasonably well protected if memorable/slightly stiff outing at the grade.

In reply to dan bulman:

Centipede on Raven is a pretty nice outing with several short and varied pitches

In reply to Ann S:

Whilst I agree that Truss Buttress and Kennel Wall would be v good and are well protected, I would take issue with Sam being a sensible choice. Quite a bold start and I have no idea how the crux around the start of the groove is 'only' severe. Absolute top end Severe at the least so not the best start.

In reply to GrahamD:

The last pitch is somewhat broken and we skipped it, traversing off right and down a gully to descend - well, I slipped on wet grass and fell 15m down the crag. Oops. Don't do that at home, kids.

In reply to dan bulman: You'll be fine on the climbing - just start ticking, but concentrate on the punctuation.

In reply to GrahamD:

I think Raven is pretty good at Severe generally. Not novice routes exactly but I don't think the OP was asking for that. As someone said, the routes on the LHS (Evening Wall/Original Route etc) are pretty good if slightly intimidating due to belays and slightly unusual gear placements. Centipede probably similar tho can't recall that much about it. Wouldn't want to fall down any of those gulleys and of course there have been some unfortunate fatalities with falls on the descent from the main crag.

Other than those mentioned, I'm struggling to come up with interesting but well protected severes in the Lakes. I always founds the Lakes routes to be a little more tricky to protect than their Welsh equivalents. It's just the rock type really. South Crag of Castle Rock is charming and sunny but the easier routes are not well protected imho eg. Wall Climb/Slab Climb.

Something like Thomas (?) at Wallowbarrow?

And if the OP hasn't been to Shepherds then def Little Chamonix (stiff V Diff).

In reply to Skyfall:

Agree Sam has a bold start, hence my comment about good gear once in the corner. However it has the merit that the slab into the corner is easily viewable and anyone not liking what they see can pass on by. It would of course help if we knew a little more about the OP's previous experience and equally important, the experience and competence of his probable second.

In reply to Skyfall:

The traverse pitch is not difficult - and as for gear lifting out when bringing the second across, the first moves are the easiest and the second is least likely to get in to bother there. The second will have a rope above them when tackling the supposed crux moves up the wall at the end of the traverse. I always found the hardest bit of the route was climbing the black groove to get up on to the slab and belay at the start of the traverse -- but that's probably down to my bad technique.

In reply to Lord of Starkness:

I used to really enjoy getting out to Kestrel Wall (and Sobrenada at a higher grade) at Eagle Crag early season but I seem to recall that was a little unnerving at the start. In fact, all the routes at that crag are unnerving. Rights of passage though!

In reply to Ann S:

Scabby Horse slightly higher up that side of Truss Buttress is a great first VS I think. Great gear at the crux which is a bit of one or two move wonder. I seem to recall the opening ramp has ok protection.

Anyway, around Kennel Wall there is also Left Edge and I think another route at Severe. So great crag choice. I'd avoid that bird poo filled chimney between Bloodhound and the hanging slab though - my god that's a disgusting (and hard) experience. Used to regularly rescue people from that with a handy TR.

In reply to dan bulman:

Gillercombe Buttress for a bit of a longer mountain route

As previously mentioned Thomas on Wallowbarrow is nice & friendly

In reply to dan bulman: Troutdale Pinnacle was my first ever severe lead. As long as you don't have a problem with exposure it should be fine. It's still one of my favourite ever climbs too.

In reply to Skyfall:

Never done Scabby horse so might check it out next time there. I entirely agree with your comments aout the corner severe right of Kennel wall which I presume is Hindleg Crack, which in my opinion is a thoroughly UNpleasant sandbag comprised of jammed blocks and flakes and not one for an aspiring severe leader. Can't quite follow the description for Left Edge so haven't tried it yet.

In reply to GrahamD:

... but is NOT well-protected - 2nd pitch very bold.

In reply to Rog Wilko:

Very bold ? nothing out of the ordinary for severe I wouldn't have thought.

In reply to Rog Wilko: 2nd pitch of Centipede is bold. There's only a small wire (and i think it's not a good one) to protect a tricky move, falling there would land you back on the belay ledge. Once this move is done there's a traverse around the corner, this does get progressively easier but no pushover, good gear at the corner.

In reply to dan bulman: If you're up to a bit of a hike then Grey Crag in Buttermere has the excellent Suaviter and the even better Oxford and Cambridge Direct. It gets the sun all day and has several buttresses one above the other so you can start with a route on the lower tier, follow it with one on the middle tier then finish on O & C Direct which ends up at the top.

Also you could have a proper mountain day and climb a route on Pikes Crag like Grooved Arrete or Juniper Buttress (MS) descend to Mickledore and then do Pisgah Buttress, also MS.

In reply to stewart murray:

Grey Crag - great call. High and cold right now tho?

thanks for all the replies, just what i was after.
hows 'via media' for gear. thats a pitch i would really like to lead. have top roped it in the past but wasn't looking for gear.

In reply to dan bulman: Via media takes loads of gear, especially once you get to the crackline, it'll take as much as you can carry from what I remember

In reply to dan bulman: Murays route on dow crag is pretty good, and theres lots of easier stuff to get you in the groove so to speak.

In reply to dan bulman:

You can put so much gear in that you may risk reversing the earth's polarity if you're not careful.

In reply to GrahamD:

See A Mountain Journey's reply. I rest my case.

In reply to Lord of Starkness: On Troutdale Pinnacle it helps for the leader to take an early belay immediately above the traverse pitch to keep the second in sight, having made the committing moves up off the slab it can be tempting to keep going up the pinnacle and belay higher up, especially if the adrenaline has started to rush.......

In reply to Andysomething:

Entirely agree with that Andy. I always advise using a very good spike belay a little way above the exit from the slab from where you can clearly see the second.

In reply to Skyfall: Kestrel Wall lovely but definitely quite fluttery at the start, definitely felt like straight in at the deep end

In reply to Roger Wilko: I thought the start of the first pitch was quite tricky and bold, I don't remember the second being that bad, also the last pitch isn't scrappy,that was the best bit, traversing across and up the arete great exsposure.