UKC

I am considering maximising my days off when my climbing partners are not around. I have seen climbers setting up a rope and weighting the bottom then climbing up alone using various self arrest type devices. Anyway I am looking for advice on which type to use, pros and cons etc. Your views are welcomed and appreciated thanks!

In reply to B.Roberts:

My preference for days when I can't get a partner is to go bouldering.

But if you have to shunt. Then this document from Petzl explains the pros and cons.

http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/product-experience/self-belay-solo-climbing...

Also

http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/a/11085/The-Best-Progress-Capture-Pulley-or-A...

and

http://www.needlesports.com/catalogue/content.aspx?con_id=f49f86db-42af-464...

In reply to mattrm: Yes I agree but the local bouldering is perhaps still a little stiff for me yet and the quarries aren't too far for a quick session. Anyway, thanks for the links and taking the time, I'll take a look......THATS GREAT!

In reply to B.Roberts: hi there,

The actual Shunt is the worst device for self-belay top roping.
Use a Petzl Basic with a simple chest harness (even a bungee will do just to keep it upright) or Petzl Croll/Ascension will do the same trick.
Make sure you choose a device that uses the same principle as the above and you won't have to use your hands to drag the device up the rope. Always a good idea to carry an abseiling device with you, in case you have to retreat, and coil up the rope and hang it on the bottom of your line for a little added weight to keep the running of your Basic smooth.
Unfortunately people use shunt because they don't know better. It's one of the great climbing miths.
If you need any more help email me on attilaforbauer@gmail.com

In reply to B.Roberts:

Just follow the petzl page.

I have a basic and microtrax, both work quite well.

In reply to needvert: They seem to recommend the Micro Traxion on the link above to when they compared it to others. What are they like for trashing the rope after falls?

In reply to hun: Thanks, you just backed up what I'd previously heard about shunts. I'll look into the other Two cheers!

In reply to B.Roberts: I use a micro trax and don't have any problems with it trashing the rope. The teeth look pretty gnarly but thinking about how ropes are made I can't see any issues. If I'm being safety conscious I do use another rope and tie knots every few metres as a back up. Goes without saying make sure you carry a belay device or similar and know how to descend when the rope is weighted!

In reply to hun:

etc

this. also, the new croll is about half the size of the previous model so you get to by new gear!!

If you follow the petzl page you'll use two devices on two ropes...

Once in a rush I just used a micro and managed to get my shirt stuck in the cam, people have had their minitrax accidently lock open. Two devices be a good idea and easy enough.


The teeth don't trash the rope. I've managed to do very trivial cosmetic sheath damage via poorly operating the toothed cam (trying to get it off in a clumsy fashion when slightly weighted), but falling - none that I've observed.

Wouldn't worry about the falling with toothed ascender damage, in my opinion its just a huge myth.