UKC

So over the last 5 months I've done next to no proper trad, owing to the long winter and subsequent horrendous weather. Having my first marathon looming on the horizon, I've been spending a lot of time running and cycling and getting time in the gym instead. However, I thought that lack of practice wouldn't affect my trad grade too much, especially given I'm just a bumbly anyway.

Headed out to the crag yesterday and had a complete 'mare. Was feeling really out of my depth on leads that I would've cruised back in November, and wasn't even feeling that secure on seconds of routes that I've actually led with confidence before!

It's really knocked my confidence and I'm pretty frustrated about the whole thing. I guess I could put it down as 'one of those days' but I guess it's more likely to be an example of the old 'use it or lose it' mantra - would the fact that I've run and cycled far more than I've climbed recently have significantly affected my climbing aptitude? Anyone got experience of similar stuff?

Just looking for a bit of reassurance here!

In reply to alexm198:

Finding your mojo can be elusive, just keep at it and it'll show up.

In reply to alexm198: Depending on your nutrition, doing a lot of running can cause your muscles to be broken down for energy and perhaps the lack of strength could have contributed? Nothing a few more sessions can't fix though!

In reply to alexm198:

When I go back to trad after the winter, I usually start about 4 grades lower than where I left off in the autumn. And that's when I've been training in the wall and bouldering all winter.

I also tend to routes I've done before, ones that I know I'll enjoy. It takes a few sessions to get back into the swing, to get relaxed on the lead again.

In reply to Jon Stewart: I'm having exactly the same thing. Stayed active over winter but not much on rock. I seem to have developed a bit of a fear of falling in that time.

Think I'll try one or two of my "easy favorites" tomorrow, see if that helps.

In reply to alexm198: A couple of years ago I went with a non-climbing friend up north for a week in spring. Did a selection of easier routes all week and that was a good start to the season.
Last year I didn't do that and I remember feeling seriously uneasy first time out.
Hopefully heading out shortly, will be expecting it this time and be in a better frame of mind.

In reply to alexm198: Just go for really easy stuff. Don't push yourself. Climb stuff you have climbed in the past. Just take it easy and build yourself up slowly.

Good luck!

In reply to alexm198: For what its worth...
I've trained pretty hard this winter - running, big winter days out & the wall 3x a week and some gym work. All that taken into account I'm chuffed to be starting this year at the grade I finished last year - I can tell I'm stronger, but it still takes a few good days out to sort the head, get used to gear, route finding etc. At our grade level I think general fitness is a huge help and you'll find the climbing will soon come back.

In reply to alexm198:

After a layoff I don't think it helps to concentrate on the grades of the climb - just get the mileage in on stuff that inspires.

In reply to alexm198: 2 things spring to mind: I think we all tend to forget how alien the whole climbing process and atmosphere can be. I don't think it's unreasonable or atypical to take a day or 2 to re-adjust after a longish spell away. I've done a lot of routing indoors over the winter but that didn't change the fact that tying on outdoors and dealing with all the extra stuff that goes with it felt unfamiliar recently.

Also, I think you always set yourself up for a fall (excuse the pun) in climbing when you expect to do something easily. You say you weren't totally comfortable seconding stuff you've led. Part of this might be that you thought it was going to feel 'easy'?

In reply to alexm198:

I have had several theories, each of which has been dismissed in turn. In essence:
- don't go onto things that you've done easily before. You'll freak anyway and the fact that you've done them before will compound that.
- accept that you'll freak and it will take you a weekend to get back into it.
- say sod it all, and jump straight back in where you were at the end of last season, and have a really stern word with yourself when the need arises (which will be most of the time). That cures the problem in a route or two.

The latter is my current modus operandi and has been coping with significant gaps over the past few years.

In reply to nniff:
4) Buy a decent warm coat, keep an eye on the weather forecast and go out on all the lovely cold clear days we normally get scattered through winter.

In reply to alexm198:
Start back well in your comfort zone, familiar territory if you can; build back fairly gently. That's what I'm doing now and really enjoying it.