In reply to Pete Graham:
Did this back in 78.
Apparently P did ask me about it and I said I could not remember.
However, the East face section is probably much the same as then. It will clear fast after bad weather. The guide was pretty confusing and complicated, we just took the easiest looking line up the chimneys, mostly alpine V (4b to 5a ) with one or two short 5b sections. The rock was mostly OK with little fixed gear.
The North face section is probably like the easier sections of the routes further right ( but I have not done any of them). It was scottish III or IV .
The final arete to the Peuterey is amazingly exposed at one point. I almost puked.
As other posters have said a real adventure and as committing as you can get ( without doing the P integral )
Joe Tasker described it well " as raw and brutal not sanitized like the Walker "