In reply to Ludo: you don't need to be able to climb a specific grade on rock as such. Just be a very good plastic climber with immaculate technique, good tactics, fitness, strength, power and good skin for dealing with sweaty volumes.
You'll often see font 8C(v15) beasts languishing in low places in the qualifiers, being out qualified by people not as strong as working and climbing hard boulder problems on rock doesn't translate so well to some horrendous volume covered slab and groove technical horror show.
I'd imagine its hard to put a grade on comp problems when you are having to read them and attempt to flash or 2nd go them all in 5 mins. A fair few would probably be ok if you could work them and rest longer than 30 secs to 1 min but some are clearly desperate!
