In reply to StevenF:
> Would you recommend going for a set of Hex's or Torque Nuts for a beginner set, or would it be best to add them at a later date?
I would definitely look to get hold of some larger gear now. Unfortunately no single option stands out as the best.
Bear with my slight digression...
I had a very stripped down rack away with me for the last few days just in case I got the chance to go climbing. Out of an almost free choice of any gear, I took:
6 wires up to Wallnut 8
Torque Nut 1
Torque Nut 2
DMM Demon cam 3.5
'In theory' that would an ideal first trad rack. However in practice things are more complicated due to £££.
The most useful of wires are in the range WC/DMM sizes 3-9. As mentioned, for a light rack these would be the sizes I'd carry. However it makes no real sense to buy just the middle sizes because:
a) you can buy the full set 1-11 for much less per wire
b) the extra wires WILL be needed in future if you progress to longer/harder routes.
The issue with hexes is trickier. {I may talk specifically about Torque Nuts but the same applies to WC Rockcentrics etc.} Again it is cheaper to buy a full set of hexes BUT this time there is a good chance you may find some or all of the hexes later become redundant.
A TNut size 1 is roughly the same size as a Wallnut 11, so if you've bought the full set of Wallnuts then it is likely to prove less useful than other gear. Initially having a big hex such as a TNut size 4 is great, however large hexes compare the most poorly with cams in terms of weight vs performance so climbers will tend to rapidly replace very large hexes with a cam when they can afford it.
Mid-sizes hexes are most useful but on harder routes when a full range of cams is available many climbers will ditch the hexes in favour of the cams. Only occasionally in the higher grades on particularly long pitches (e.g. E1-E3 crack climbs at Fairhead) will you commonly see climbers carry both a full set of cams and hexes.
You have various options and can now hopefully understand some of the pros and cons:
- buy a full set of TNuts (or Rockcentrics 6-9)
- save money to help buy cams through:
. A) buying just 1 or 2 sizes - TNut 2, TNuts 2&3 or in Rockcentrics sizes 6 & 8 work well.
. B) buying a couple of cheap old fashioned hexes on rope 2nd hand as a stop gap.
- go straight to buying 2-3 cams.
Most people tend to buy the full set of TNuts (or larger Rockcentrics) straight away and are content.
> You mentioned it is pointless to keep slings on a screwgate and they should be kept on a wiregate; is that so they can also be used as extendable sling draws if required?
Yes, that's one of the reasons.
Also, if you want to further extend cams/hexes which are racked on their own wiregate, it makes slightly more sense to reach for a short sling and a single wiregate rather than to reach for an extendable quickdraw with two wiregates.
On easier routes you will very often want to use 120cm slings as runners (over a spike, round a tree etc.) and in that case a wiregate, as opposed to a heavier, costly screwgate, is more than sufficient.
You generally only use screwgates at belays, and the main point of belays is they will be at the best 'stance' on the route. As such swapping from a wiregate to a screwgate at a belay if needed will pose no real hassle.
Equally if people do want to carry 6-8 screwgates that's their choice...